원정 개요

Stayed Nylam 4 nights, Tingri 5 nights and ABC 2 night before carrying loads to C1 and were well acclimatized. 24 April down for 4 days at ABC. From ABC 29th six members moved to C1. 30th moved up in alpine-style and slept at 6800m on plateau; 1 May Alcaraz tired and down to 5600m (and later to BC) while 5 members to 7000m. 2 May 5 members to 7400m. 3 May 5 members for top but Feijoo and Palacios turned back after 2-1/2 hours at 7485m (very soft 30 cm deep snow, so very slow progress by first person opening routes) because long time to reach summit will make it very late on top - but other 3 went up slowly to summit at 4:00 pm, taking lot of time to find highest point (when they saw Everest). Left top at 4:30 pm and biv 8050m because wind caused them not to see route because footprints blown away. Slept under small summit in hole in ice into which could have shelter for top half of body. 4th May down to 7400m where Feijoo and Palacios waiting and 9 am in very bad condition (dehydration, 2 badly frostbitten men also blind). Feijoo down to alert doctors from other teams at ABC while others go to 7000m to stay night. 5 May down to ABC and 3 US doctors, prepared to give help, did so [I asked Andueza and Izquierdo if they had]. Now in morning of 3rd May that they would become so badly frostbitten, would they still have gone to summit? Answer: not for Cho Oyu: for K2 or Everest: yes. Why Navas not frostbitten? No explanation except God's will.