원정 개요

BC at Pangri Glacier
C1 at Pangri Glacier
C2 at upper part of glacier flat snowfield, at Col
C3 on West Ridge, bottom of steep face
High point at West Ridge.

Above C1 complex of crevasses and kind of icefall: 200m difficult glacier - deep snow even at low altitude and impossible to traverse without snow shoes or skis (expedition had them). C2 at bottom of difficult part of route which was steep ice of NW Face 1000m height. C3 at col on ridge connecting Gyachi Kang to Nemjung (Nemjung's west side). Tried to climb West Ridge on 15th; dug snow cave to make C3 on 15th in good weather and slept here. Night of 15/16th more than 1 meter new snow and "we were buried in our cave and very dangerous" but kept entrance open as well as we could. 16th new snowfall of half meter in afternoon so now dangerous and very difficult to climb this steep rock ridge. Very nice route without so much snow.