원정 개요

East Ridge extremely long; 1000m icefall from 21,000 ft leads to this ice ridge. SE Pillar is one of hardest climbs in Himalaya: steep rock climbing but line.

Total 10 members out of which 5 are trekkers only.


Ewen Todd - 16 Oct 85

Never got to base camp. Went up Seti and then NW to east of Mardi Himal to a Col at about 5000m on 5th Oct. Then started snowing so much could not go on with sirdar and cook because now technical climbing involved. Camped there to see how weather developed.

But now porters had deserted (on 27th Sept) and LO had turned back. Scots had been ferrying loads themselves.

Were exhausted from carrying loads and feared snow conditions on mountain impossible. Dumped some gear and much food at col and left col on 7th Sept.

With continuing snowfall, could have gotten trapped in BC area.

Toyed with idea of northern approach but did not make actual request for permission because of lack of time and funds and still snowing.

Todd left team about 24 Sept because of miserable conditions apparently.


Cherry - 30 Sept 85

Cummings of Annapurna III returned to KTM 27 Sept before team reached BC. Said expedition would not come off - did not have enough money and not capable of climb.

Porters report Scots buying and smoking hash.