원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 on SW Ridge.

Biv at 6050m above yellow tower on 5 April on route to C2 site, had to stop to put in rope and that took all day (on 30m high vertical slab) and fixing not finished till next day, but now could see route above powder snow on solid rock and every afternoon few centimeters snow fell and blown away. On 7th waited till 1:00 pm to see what weather would do: clouds came down from Everest and up from lower altitude, snow again and wind. "Snow conditions not good for rock climbing" says Chang.