원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at NE Col
C2 at NE Ridge
C3 at NE Ridge.

Made deposit at 7350m on NE Ridge on 27 April but not slept in; this day Koreans summited but Kitamura arrived BC only 12 April (trekked via French Pass in start of his acclimatization which not finished by 27 April). This "big mistake" his coming late. Now kitchen boy got sick (fever and cough) and sirdar (same and leg pain and went to KTM 12 May) and Konishi in BC 10 days with fever and cough also. May 1st what up but Kitamura not strong and returned from 5300m. 22 May again up and at 6800m Gyalzen also cough and fever so again down. 29 May from BC to C2 Konishi, Kitamura and Gyalzen; 30 May to 7600m; 31 May to summit and down to 7600m; left C3 at 4:45 am and on top 7:00 pm and returned to C3 at 2:30 am on 1st June and slept there. Kitamura very tired in descent from summit and in dark Konishi had problem finding route.

Gyalzen Sherpa says he was born in summer 1961, lives in Yilajung, near Thami; this is his 1st 8000m on summit.