원정 개요

Konishi - 13 June 76

Same route as New Zealand route. From C2 to C3 could see New Zealand ropes, but not safe to use. Other New Zealand rope not found: snow avalanche area and probably taken away.

C2 -> C3 most difficult part of climb. Vertical rock with very hard blue ice between C3 and C4 found New Zealand campsite. Used very different campsites because snow conditions different autumn and spring. From C6 to summit also very difficult. 1st party put in fixed ropes so not difficult for other parties. 6750m fixed rope total used - 155 pitches. No oxygen.

Had experienced team with enough members to rotate lead climbing and resting. New Zealand ropes showed route.


MB Pandey, MFA - 18 May 76

3rd group to summit 31 Baisakh = 13 May
1) Toshio Yakigama
2) Seichikana Mura
3) Kuyani Kawakami


MB Pandey, MFA - 16 May 76

Summit on Baisakh 30 = 12 May: Leader Konishi, Kazuyoshi Kono, Masaru Samba and 2 Sherpas Pemba Tsering and Phurba Sherpa.

Still more members will attempt summit.


Sakashita - 16 Feb 76

We can succeed because we very strong with much experience in Himalayas.

"Japanese route little steep but near top (= near summit when reached top of ridge) not so difficult, but perhaps this route has avalanches dangers, then we change to New Zealand route."


Sakashita - 11 Feb 76

Ogawa 1973 recce and others 1975 recce. Route slightly to right of New Zealand planned route up (via snowfield not ridge) to ridge and thence right on ridge.

Advance team Ogawa, Oki and 3 members in Nepal arrive 23 Dec.

Keiichi Oki went to Khumbu for trekking [and fast acclimatization] and finding oxygen cylinders for expedition. Oki flew KTM/SYB 27 Jan, Namche all day 28 Jan, on 29 Jan he and 2 friends went to Thyangboche and 3 Jan reached Pheriche. 31 Jan climbed a peak 5000m east of Pheriche and returned to Pheriche at 15:00 hrs. 1 Feb became unconscious 15:00 hrs. 2 Feb died at Pheriche 17:45 hrs due high altitude sickness. Body brought to KTM (now at USAID) and will be cremated 13th.

Main party arrive 12th RNAC from BKK. Expedition leave KTM by bus to Dharan (baggage in Dharan now mostly came by sea) soon as possible after 12th ceremony at THT 7 pm - maybe 17th.

Leave Dharan about 20 or 21 Feb after collecting 300 porters. Arrive BC after 18 days at about 4800m (higher then New Zealand), 10-12 March.

C1 - 5300m in icefall
C2 - 5700m
C3 - 6200m on face
C4 - 6700m on face
C5 - 7200m on ridge
C6 - 7400m on ridge
Hope reach summit 1 May
10 Sherpas and 1 sirdar Karma Sherpa.