원정 개요

Iwa-to-Yuki (1977) reports BC at 4000m and C1 at 5050m.


Kunisawa & Ujihara - 8 May 76

Did not go to South Peak because ran out of food - and HMG did not permit it. Would not have been so difficult to reach South Peak.

LO's reports re summit people and dates not so difficult to climb main peak but felt altitude above 6000m (no climbing oxygen).

All members well - no accidents
Good weather and good team works
Only 2 here now - rest on 14th


PM Singh - 2 May 76

28 April summit by Wada, Kenichi Kiyooka, Soichi Takeda, Kazuo Yamamoto
29 April Chusei Irimaziri
Hiroshi Kawada
Seizi Yamamoto

Mingma Tenzing Sherpa, sirdar
JEPA Sherpa

30 April: Yasumi Ujihara
Kenichi Nakahira
Toichi Nozima
Tsuneo Komatsu
Shojiro Murata
Tsamu Tozaki

leaving BC 9-10 May
C3 6100m 25 April

C4 6450m 16 April
weather good


Ujihara & Kunisawa - 13 March 76

East Ridge, same route as 1974 Japanese route. Then from summit to South Peak 6931m high and 500m direct distance from main summit.

18 March leave for Pokhara by road; 22 March leave Pokhara, arrive BC
29 March at 4200m

5 high camps; C5 at 6900m almost at top start from C5 from South Summit also, but not same day as main summit attack.

19 total: 14 climbers and 5 stay at BC doing scientific research and medical care.

All 14 hope to reach main summit, but difficult; hope to send 4 members to South Summit. No other expedition tried South Summit

Main summit end of April - 28-30 April
3 Sherpas
Oxygen medical use only