원정 개요

BC at 5400m on ridge on west side of Chago Glacier south of pt 6170m
C1 at 5850m on moraine stone just east of "h" in Chago Glacier on Schneider map
C2 at 6800m east of (below) Makalu La
C3 at 7400m on Makalu Col
C4 at 7900m just east of NW Ridge.

Route from C1 to C2 kept to east of moraine south of Chago. Sept 9 descended to BC and then much snowfall. On Sept 14 tried to go from C2 to col but got halfway only and then again snowfall and again to BC for 1 week. Sept 22 C3 established. 24 Sept Giambisi and San Sebastian to C3. Then all down to BC because deep fresh snow. Finally up again Sept 28 by all 5 climbers. Slept C2 that night, in C3 on Sept 29, C4 on Sept 30 and Oct 10. Left C4 for top 6:30 am and on summit 6:00 pm. Returned to C4 11:00 pm in new deep snow. Oct 2 at C2 and Oct 3 BC. Left BC Oct 5 and arrived KTM Oct 12.