원정 개요

Schubert missing since night of 24/25 May.

Wolf - 9 June 76

Czechs descended via Spaniards route, much quicker.

Don't know what happened to Schubert, whether he fell or what happened. 10 hours from C6 to 8300m where he stopped meant impossible to go to spot and look for him. Summiters exhausted and unable and for those in C5 also not possible. 3 summiters were not roped during descent and Schubert went more slowly; he stopped at beginning of a traverse over to top of fixed ropes.

Note: Schubert's body found by Spanish in Spring 1989 in sitting position [about 7800m].


Wolf to Wiedner - 26 May 76

24 May 16:30 Czechs Krissak and Schubert on summit; together with them on top was Camprubi (Spain) from C6 7950m.

3rd member of Czech summit team Orolin returned from back about 100m from below summit. During descent which lasted until middle of night, Schubert forced spend night 8300m.

From 9 pm on 25 May he was missed. Rescue action undertaken but stopped by extreme exhaustion of support team on 26 May at 10:15. Czech expedition prepares for return trip.


Wiedner - 24 May 76

Czech changed C6 to saddle below summit at 7950m on 23 May.

Spaniards C6 same place and same day in close cooperation with Czech expedition; probably today attempt Czechs and 1 Spaniard. Spaniards not so strong.

HMG permission to change routes granted; all probably go down.

Spaniards route; permission is to go down either route if other expedition agrees.


Wolf to Wiedner - 18 May 76

Attack on summit did not succeed. 14 May Orolin and Talla from C6 tried reach summit. Unfavourable weather conditions; 8050m stopped. Now starting 2nd attack preparations 23-24 May.


Wiedner - 10 May 76

Vladimir Petrik arrived today by helicopter with frostbitten toes; stays at Express House. Says summit planned for 12th or 13th with 11th C6 to be established; in 1973 expedition had not quite reached Col.


Wolf, BC - 7 May 76

The weather in Makalu is clear, but very windy in these days, so that is impossible to climb. We have established the C5 and fixed the ropes above it to the altitude of 7900m. Nov we are waiting in BC, C1, C2 and C3 for the better weather.

All members are in C1, C2, C3, C4 and C5 waiting for weather to be able to start to attach the summit. The weather however is not too good; everyday new snow here in the BC so as in the other camps. Very cold BC: -7 degrees C at night in other camps were through we found the first blossoms in the base camp. Has the cows and yaks are two days march below the BC.


Letter 25 Apr 1976 from Galfy

C4 had been established on 19 Apr at the altitude of 7300m. There are ropes fixed up to C5 at the altitude of 7850m and we expect to establish this camp in the next days.

The climate is the usual one in Makalu region in this season. The maximum temperature is 10 degree, the minimum minus 10 degrees C at BC. There are however some slight signs of coming monsoon present, storms and strong wind. The daily snowing is usual.

The health condition of all members and Sherpas are relatively good.


Czech BC via Wiedner - 23 April 76

C4 7300m 19 May when established; new snow (1/2 meter) in difficult rocky terrain. Established by: Michal Orolin, Miran Krissak and Karel Schubert.

Presently working way to C5 and on 22nd reached 7750m.


Wiedner - 21 April 76

C4 7300m on 19 April
Very bad weather, every day new snow; even base has 1 feet snow.
All 3 lower camps repaired and already making route towards C5.


Wiedner - 11 April 76

Czech BC (Wolf ?) told him on radio this evening they had blizzard last night which damaged tents, but no one hurt and progress continues. 50% damaged all 3 camps.


Letter from 26 Mar 76

C1 has been established on 22 Mar. In the moment 4 members are prospering to C2 (6200m).


Wolf - 29 Feb 76

10 Sherpas
LO's name is Bhatta
6 high camps at same places as before and C6 at about 8100m.

"Many of our members have been 5 times there, they know every stone. All that's needed is to repair the ropes, establish camps and go to summit."

Summit by 10-15 May.


Czech Makalu had pitched 5 high camps with C5 at 7850m and planned C6 for 8200m. Reached 8010m on 21 May 1973 when member Jan Kounicky fell and all climbing halted to try to save him (he died 26 May).


Wolf - 17 Feb 76

Trucks 3-9 tons Birgunj after 1 week.

Technical difficulties have been overcome in previous expedition; now all that's to be done is traverse long East Ridge.


Wiedner - 19 Jan 76

Leader and deputy leader same as last time Ivan Galfy and Dr. J. Wolf
Arrive 12 Feb, stay at Express House
2 trucks leave Prague about 20 Jan.

Sirdar to be same as last time: Ang Temba