원정 개요

Josep Montfort, BC Makalu - 30th May, 1976

The Base Camp was established on April 5th, at 4870m, in the Barun Valley and near the Czechoslovakian BC.

In the follows days we had established the high camps:

C1 at 5500m on April 9th
C2 at 6000m on April 12th
C3 at 6600m on April 15th
C4 at 7240m on May 4th
C5 at 7420m on May 21st
C6 at 7900m on May 23rd

The route until C3 was crossing the icefall from the South Col, where it was necessary to put 3 fixed ropes and two ladders in different places, in order to be easily crossing crevasses. Between the C3 and C4 we must to install 800m of fixed ropes on the ice wall.

Between the C4 and C5 we must install 1000m of fixed ropes, following the SE Ridge until the Black Gendarme and after we had flanked on the East Face.

In the C6 we had had met by the Czechoslovakian expedition, and together had reached the top. In the top went one Spanish member team, together by two Czechoslovakian members team, one of them didn't came back to the C6, although the Spanish and Czechoslovakian members waited for him whole night. Next day they tried to look for him, but it was unsuccessful.

We have scheduled to come back to Tumlingtar from the BC on May 31st. We try to travel by charter plane from Tumlingtar to Biratnagar and immediately to fly from Biratnagar to KTM while the truck will go to Birgunj.


Bahi - 10 March 76

Reached BC 1st April; climb SE Ridge to Black Gendarme and thence across east side to final summit ridge if snow good quality.

6 high camps with big camp as kind of advance base.
Oxygen only for sleeping at C6.

Summit middle May 10-20 May; by 1st June must retreat because of monsoon onset.

Walk out to Dharan.

Dr Redardo arrives in Nepal 18-20 April.

LO's name is Bhandary.