원정 개요

Doug Scott - 14 Oct 78

Scott himself has same doubt about summit success of British Army:

Compare "Soldiers on Everest" photo captioned Brummie Stokes approaching Hillary Step and photo in Quest (March/April 1977) article on American Bicentennial Expedition photo by Chandler captioned from South Summit. British pre-monsoon photo shows much less snow than in autumn.


Streather (press conference) - 25 May 76

Hoped get to mountain in March which did; surprised to find mountain black (clear of snow). Got through Icefall 4-5 days. Strong wind became apparent as got up higher. Plans was to get camps up to Col in April so when weather settled in 1st week May could get to summit between 10th and 20th May. Got camps fairly far up and then Icefall gave great trouble and for 5 days route cut. From then on great trouble with Icefall and used all 40 sections of our ladders and 33 of others left by Bonington, Italians and Japanese ladies and 3 bridges of logs.

Weather then became problem; wind dropped and by 14 May high camps established with C6 at 27,500 ft (with 2 men) and 4 men at C5 in Col and 4 in C4, thus chance of 10 to top, but very bad blizzard 14/15 May and Streather much concerned about survival at C6 and C5. Had to have proceedings on 15th but 16th weather quite reasonable. By then same oxygen supplies used and men had been at high altitude.

16th to summit; reached foot South Summit in little over 1 hour, which very fast, but then weather started deteriorating and snow slowed them. They set themselves deadline of 3 pm, when were at Hillary Step and got to top 3:15 or 3:30 stayed only few minutes. Saw no sign of Mick. During descent weather bad and progress slow.

16th Scott and Gunson moved up to C6 to give help or make 2nd attempt. At nightfall reported non-arrival and no one knew where summiters were.

17th Scott and Gunson went upwards and by 10 am had met summiters coming down slowly and exhausted and frostbitten and Stokes snowblinded. Scott and Gunson escorted them down to South Col by 6 pm. 2 Sherpas and 2 climbers went up from C5 to help Lane who was able to come right down C2 on 18th but Stokes more slowly and reached only C4 8 pm.

19th Stokes to C2 will lose bits of little toes.

Wanted Nepal army as well as British army on top but Bagrot sick throughout and he main hope of RNA as summiter. Other 2 RNA didn't have enough experience.

10 British reached South Col supported by 17 other British and other 2 RNA (who reached C4).

If had 10 days fine weather after 14th, possible 1 RNA and 1 Gurkha and 2 Sherpas could have gotten to top.

No view at all from top.


Lane - 21 May 76

[Lane walking awkwardly with stick and wearing red felt over boots]; will lose litte toes and fingers.

Bringing Brian down to BC today; halfway down Icefall clearly when have left BC today.

Stokes got sunblindness (last his glasses at biv) and frostbite maybe little more severe than Lane but not much, but more exhausted. Dr with him two days; sight maybe Ok today or tomorrow. Lane now to hospital but may be not to stay, but last year last little also - Brian numbs.

16th weather clouded in about 10:30 and stayed that way till 4-4:30. Got to 3/4 hour from C6 on good day - 28,000 ft.

Didn't see Chinese thing on top.

No trace of Mick Burke; day after tomorrow all at BC.


Keelam at BC - 15 May 76

Unannounced blizzard, worst to date, struck Mount Everest overnight 14/15 May. All survived including summit pair at C6, but there can be no question of summit attempt today. Deep new snow is causing many difficulties. Expedition will remain poised for summit bid 16 May in hope weather improves. If not withdrawal will become necessary as those at high level are deteriorating rapidly. It may be possible to mount subsequent assault pre-monsoon.


PM Singh - 15 May 76

C6, 14 May by Brummie Stokes and Bronco Lane. Today's weather bad they wait in C5 today for so summit attempt tomorrow.


BC to Butler - 8 May 76

Winds have delayed establishment of C5 - Icefall still giving trouble.


From Peacock BC via Butler - 5 May 76

Armstrong, Day, S Johnson and Neame reached South Col today; stocking of camps starts tomorrow am and occupation expected tomorrow night.

Icefall in very bad condition. No route between C1 and ABC because top part of Icefall breaking up.


BC to KTM from Butler - 2 May 76

C4 first occupants:
Hardie
Chris Johnson
Scott
Gunson


BC to KTM from MFA - 1 May 76

C4 25,000 ft established; weather exceptionally fine.


Peacock to Butler - 29 April 76

C4 - 25,000 ft placed 29th occupying it 20 1/2 way up face.
Weather extremely last day or so. Summit bid 2nd week May.


Streather -> Bowring, BC - 16 April 76

Thompson buried 09:00 hrs top of Icefall.

Wasn't wearing his glasses (found in his tent) and just couldn't see where he was going (fatigue and altitude caused him not wear glasses).


19 April 76

Tim King to KTM 22 April suspected pneumonia. No progress because 5 members sick, very bad weather especially very high winds.


PM Singh, MFA - 12 April 76

Captain Thompson killed at 17:00 hrs 10 April; fell in crevasse near C2. Body recovered and now at C2 (established 9 April at 21,800 ft). Streather and Armstrong remaining at C2 and descending to BC 12 April. Thens Athens at C2 and staying there.


Mike Butler - 12 April 76

Thompson died at 17:00 hrs Sat 10th; C1 said he fell into crevasse near C2.

Streather and Armstrong remaining at C2, body recovered and is at C2.
C2 established 7th April.


6 April 76

Doug Keelan arrive KTM Today with hernia; goes to BMH Dharan on 8 April for operation and thence Khunde for recuperation/reacclimatization hoping to rejoin expedition and go high.


Streather (press conference) - 27 Feb 76

Lt Col Tony Streather reached very near Kangchenjunga summit, Nepal's 2nd highest mountain; now back for highest.

Nuptse was preparatory expedition.

Prince Charles and Prince Himalayas = royal patrons and Chief of Defense Staff Sir Michael Carver and General Singha Bahadur Basnet hope to put RNA Gurkha and British atop - could get possible 8 am summit if weather good - but if bad luck with weather and oxygen problem may have be satisfied with 2 but determined to get someone up.

34 climbers including 3 RNA and 3 Nepal Gurkhas.

Advance party of 9 leave today to Dhologhat; next leave March 1 and again 2nd March with 3 or 4 later on. All assemble at Pheriche acclimatization camp. If snow cleared off Icefall, in April go through Icefall. Hillary-Tenzing route. South Col by end April or very early May and be ready for summit when good weather.

6 camps above BC with C6 will up SE Ridge at about 27,400 ft or as near 28,000 ft as possible.

Why Everest? more and more experience by AMA and now ready for the top one. Do not plan to go to summit without oxygen. Pat Gunson wants to try without oxygen but may not be allowed to do so and in any way case he would be helped by those with oxygen.

1 sirdar and 10 high Sherpas
15 Icefall porters

Sonam Girme, sirdar
Nuptse 1975

"We will use logistic skill" to hence right amount of supplies and people for success; did some computer work too.

Just over $50,000 in cash and ratios and RAF transport
19,000 kg and equipment and food

Still just as big a challenge to mountaineer whether others have done it before or not.

Hopes BC on his 50th birthday 24th March (made Kangchenjunga BC 24th March).
Will fly out from Lukla.
Optimistic about success if Icefall safe and good weather and good luck.

Only 3 climbing members have not been to Himalayas; before this Streather's 7th time, probably most experienced team ever to come to Himalayas.


John Pencock - 27 Feb 76

All meet Pheriche
leave 27 Feb - 8 Brits and 1 Gurkha
leave 1 Mar - 15 (9 Brits and 2 RNA + 4 Gurkhas)
2 Mar - 9 Brits incl Times, Streather and Fleming, and 3 Gurkhas
and Sirdar Sonam Girme and 1 RNA

All in Pheriche by 18th March and BC by end March

Through Icefall about 7th or 8th
Adv BC 10th & 14th
South Col by end April - 1st week May
One camp above Col
Plan 3 parties of 2 each on top
About 8 British who could go to top, others strictly British Sherpas.

10 HA Sherpas
15 Icefall Sherpas
1 sirdar
3 RNA
3 Gurkhas
1 RAF
2 Marines
25 British AMA
---
34 total


Mike Kefford - 10 Feb 76

Streather on 27th and 8
Peacock Leave KTM 1 & 2 March 23rd + 14 - 9 leave KTM 27th
2 arrive 2 + 9 March - fly to Lukla
Pheriche acclimatization camp
BC occupied about 1 April
9 Club expedition, not national expedition
Sirdar = Sonam Girme (Nuptse)