원정 개요

Climbing abandoned 15 Oct.

Shindo - 21 Nov 76

3 weeks searching for route. Trying 1st from South Ridge of Peak 6614m, but 200m rock face.

Then tried SW Ridge and put 3 camps along this route with C2 and C3 on this ridge. From there to 6614m summit and down ridge and up Putha Hiunchuli W Ridge.

Kobayashi and Pemba Tsering reached summit of 6614m peak 13 Oct, but then ridge down difficult: 13 Oct Kobayashi and Pemba Tsering could not find route on this steep ridge and returned to C3.

2 days later Kobayashi and Pemba Tsering went north side of 6614m peak 500m below summit and traversed snow slope, searching for route for few days but not found. Snow slope big avalanches and hidden crevasses: too dangerous and not enough food to try long route around 6614m to Putha Hiunchuli summit = 10 days more, so had to decide all go down on 15 Oct.

Like Alps: steep route = 3-4 more members and climbing Sherpas also.


MB Pandey, MFA - 31 Oct 76

C3 established then abandoned; could not find good route 13 Oct.


MFA - 27 Sept 76

29 Badra = 14 Sept 12:30
4500m BC Putha Hiunchuli


Shindo - 22 Aug 76

New route definite via point 6614m (Pt 21,699 ft).

Leave KTM 26 Aug by road to Pokhara; leave Pokhara 28 or 29 Aug; caravan to BC 15-18 days. Climbing 40 days so summit mid-Oct.

Doctor will go from Pokhara with expedition, but probably not all the way to BC; he has no time.


Kobayashi & Mizukawa (via Otsu) - 15 Aug 76

17th climbing leader, etc arrive.

Only 2 here now. Route via South Ridge of point 21,699 (6614m) which is unnamed ([incorrectly] given name Dogari Peak) perhaps to summit of point 21,699 anyway; traverse its southeast side to its East Ridge which is West Ridge of Putha Hiunchuli or direct.

Putha Hiunchuli from SW Face to last bit (highest bit) of SW Ridge. This last bit only same part of route SW Ridge route of other expeditions

BC - 4000m in Dogari Khola
C1 - 4700m in Khola also
C2 - 5500m on Peak 21,699
C3 - 6300m height on this peak
C4 - 6500m on ridge between Peak 21,699 and Putha Hiunchuli

or if take more direct route then plan camps from C2; maybe 2 camps more, maybe 1 and biv.

4 Sherpas including and 1 cook
Leave KTM 23 Aug, leave Pokhara 26 Aug, arrive BC 8 Sept, on summit 5 Oct
No climbing with oxygen