원정 개요

Misha Saleki - 24 Feb 79

Saleki does not believe that a Persian reached Manaslu's summit in 1976. He has seen summit photos and none shows Persian with anyone else. Even Japanese photo has him alone and is black and white and blurred whereas Japanese had color of others.


Tamura - 2 Nov 76

C2-C3 most difficult because in post-monsoon many crevasses which opened wider; 1 crevasse has 6 ladders joined. Very dangerous at end. Route making very hard work.

Next most difficult C4 to C5: plateau very strong wind and cold and cold and final ascent time.

12 Oct, left C5 6:30 am but inside oxygen mask frozen and returned to camp. Left C5 8:30 am and reached top 3:43 pm by Assadi, Kageyama and Pasang. Did not find body on plateau. Much snow in post-monsoon.

Route same as Japanese women = East Face.

I hoped put 3 teams 4 men each but some not well acclimatized, some didn't like food other meals brought (2 members lost 10 kg).

No 2nd summit attempt as no others in summit condition.

Kageyama little frostbite his toes but already heeled; Assadi little finger and also healed. All members in KTM.


MB Pandey, MFA - 13 Oct 76

Oct 11 C5 7650m
Oct 12 summit by
Jun Kageyama, Japan, 47 years
Mohammad Jafar Assadi, 45 years
Pasang Sherpa, Nepal


General Khakbis - 15 Aug 76 (by telephone)

Expedition leave KTM tomorrow 10:00 am by bus and 7 trucks to Trisuli Bazar; after 2 days Trisuli Bazar set out for Sama with 500 porters. This expedition Iranians part is part of Iranians Mtn Federation's celebration of 50th anniversary of Pohlavi monarchy. 20 in groups to 5 mountains of which Manaslu is highest. Carrying special arms and flags for summit (other groups already climbed Fuji and Rosa on Swiss-Italy border).


Tamura - 8 Aug 76

Same route as Japanese women's success route on East Face and slightly different from 1956. If now successful will be 1st post-moonsoon success on Manaslu.

Chose Manaslu as 8000m peak, but not so difficult and this Iranian Mtn federation first time in Nepal Himalaya; maybe Iranians come to Everest: this is test.

Iran-Japan friendship 5 years old. Tamura climbed in Turkey and Iran with Iranian and Iran MT Federation invited Japanese. Pres IMF visited Japan and spoke of hope of joint expedition which then worked out.

Advance party 2 Japanese and 2 Iranians arrive 2 weeks before main party on 6 Aug; 3 more to come; total 20.

Leave 15 Aug for Trisuli Bazar by truck and caravan of 17-20 days to BC near Sama village at 4350m.

C5 highest camp at about 7650m (about same as Japanese ladies, he thinks)
Very dangerous and difficult between C2 and C3, avalanche danger.
Summit about Oct 1-10 when big white birds migrate.

Come south from Tibet.
One month for climbing
21 HA Sherpas and 2 cooks, 4 kitchen boys and 2 mailrunners
Oxygen for climbing from 7000m (C4).
Hope put total 10 men on top in 3 parties.
Iranians may be better acclimatized because live and climb at higher altitude.