원정 개요

Leroy & Beghin - 29 Oct 77

Ex-Samagaon by helicopter: Leroy and Beghin and Dr.
Others coming down; leave BC today - to KTM 7-8 days (to Manaslu Hotel).

7600m Leroy and Beghin 23 Oct. Temperature -40 degrees at 1 pm when sun behind mountain and after we don't see. We have frostbitten feet: Beghin 2 feet, toes; Leroy fingers and right toes.

23 Oct Leroy and Beghin came to 7400m in little tent.
C2 at 6500m about 10 Oct, soft snow to waist and 80 cms

Small expedition: 4 in beginning, but leader ill with breathing and Porret had sad news from family so only 2 climbers above C2. So 2 men in much snow and cold was impossible for 2 men.

2 Sherpas but not good: 1 went to C2 only. Beghin and Leroy had to go down after to get loads dumped between C1 and C2.

Beghin, Leroy and Porret in big powder avalanche that hit C1. Protected by little shoulder of snow so not swept away but 1 tent totally destroyed; 8 am 6 Oct on glacier 800m below found small pieces of tent and 1 rucksack.

Beghin sad because of toes but we were not lucky with weather. Big expedition could do it, but we only 2 above C2 for 10 days and didn't know where others were.

To hotel now but to France.
2 other members slight frostbitten fingers.


Jha - 28 Oct 77

24 Oct at 7300m, 2 members sustained frostbite and are
1) Thierry Leroy, 27
2) Pierre Beghin, 26

Brought to BC and both legs seriously frostbitten; helicopter for both men 29 to KTM from Samagaon for urgent medical treatment. Expedition not abandoned.

Very heavy snowfall and avalanche 10 Oct and hampered progress.


Jha, MFA - 6 Oct 77

C1 5700m 30 Sept by Porret and Beghin and 2 Sherpas.
Weather fine despite snowfall and all in good health.


Frehel - 8 Sept 77

1st French attempt. Same East Ridge as Japanese women tried in Spr 1974, but not via entire ridge. Will get onto ridge from north much further west than Japanese ladies who attempted entire length of very long ridge.

BC opposite C1 of normal route. May have higher C1 at first on north side getting onto ridge but no easy place for camp there. Saw C2 on ridge. At most 1 more camp C2 on ridge at 6500m. Then climbers with specially light tents will go out, make route for several days and return; then in end all 4 together (Dr not in final assault).

Not bothered about avalanches and technical problems, only bad weather and winds (not west, jet stream, from which protected by summit).

Leave KTM Sun or Monday about 70 porters, 1 cook and 2 Sherpas
2 Sherpas up to C1 or C2, not beyond C2.
Hope 10 days march (but may take longer to BC).

Need at least 3-4 weeks acclimatization. Summit between 15 Oct-1 Nov he hopes, but have supplies to end of Nov.

Oxygen only at C2 for medical use
Standard route = NE Face


Teams highest fixed camp pitched at 6500m on ridge about 10 oct. Only one Sherpa proved to be good climber and even he often dumped loads below C2 instead of carrying all the way from base to C2.

Leroy and Beghin, carrying small tent and what supplies they could manage, worked their way up ridge to 7600m on 23 Oct. They were struggling against waist-deep snow, in bitter cold when sun not shining directly on them. 7600m at 1:00 pm on 23 Oct was climax of expedition. Temperature was minus 40 degrees centrigrade. Leroy and Beghin spent that night at 7400m in their small tent and continued descent next day.