원정 개요

Correct route for 1977 autumn Japanese on Dhaulagiri I was: a spur on SSW Face between South Pillar and South Ridge (according to Yves Pollet-Villard and Jean Coudray, Nov 78).


Jha - 4 Oct 77

Abandoned Sun 9 Oct after reaching 6550m well above C5. Leader and LO say reasons:

1) 1 member Ippommatsu injured in his face by falling rock about 1 week ago.
2) Most members very much exhausted.
3) West Face very steep and difficult and dangerous.

Injured man helicoptered to KTM today.

Sukazi
Ippommatsu
Miss Fukuhiro

Ippommatsu received treatment in BC - could not walk, but not in hospital.


Ranjan - 11 Oct 77

3 injured in hotel; broken bones in face and join leaves Sat with leader and girlfriend.


Tsukazaki - 20 Sept 77

Tsukazaki, wife of Takagi and fiancee of Ippommatsu go to BC by helicopter in next one week. They have just arrived from Japan. Fiancee (Miss Noriko Fukuhiro) and Ippommatsu will be married in Buddhist ceremony at BC after climbing finished member. Mizuta, arrived from BC yesterday and is flying to Japan 25 Sept because wife just had baby.

Mizuta reports expedition made C3 on 5 Sept at 5300m.
Route is West Face.

* oxygen taken but probably not used.


11 Oct 1977

Japanese Kansai Dhaulagiri Expedition on 9th Oct. Abandoned their attempt scale 8167m Himalaya giant by unclimbed west face following injuries to a member, Fumio Ippommatsu, and exhaustion of others on this extremely "steep" difficult and dangerous route.

Ippommatsu, his fiancee Miss Noriko Hukuhiro and expedition leader and doctor Yoshito Tsukazi helicoptered from BC to KTM today. Reuters has learned Ippommatsu, who Ministry reports was struck by falling rock about 1 week ago, probably has broken bones in face and jaw, and he with fiancee and leader will leave here Saturday for Japan.

Ippommatsu and Hukuhiro were to be married in Buddhist ceremony at base camp after climbing finished, but Reuters' source says wedding will now take place in Japan instead.

Ministry said expedition reached maximum height of 6550m on West Face before giving up. Earlier Ministry report announced 5th high altitude camp had been pitched at 6250m 3 Oct more than 2 weeks after C4 placed at 5830m. Highest point of 6550m left 1600m vertical meters still to go on steep and difficult face with added danger from falling rock. Last spring noted North Tyrolian mountaineer Reinhold Messner, leading an expedition to Dhaulagiri I himself and defeated on South Face by dangerous avalanching, examined West Face as possible alternate route and made no attempt to climb after seeing its dangers.

Dhaulagiri I expedition finally managed make 5th high altitude camp on extremely difficult West Face route they are pioneering. The basic information indicates they are moving very slowly but moving and require considerable more time and at least two more high camps before in position to make summit bid. But time is working is working against them: fiercely bitterly cold winds from Tibet can begin battering them andy day now, defeat the best of mountaineers.