Polish Himalaya Expedition Himalchuli 1985
Himalchuli North · 1985 · 가을 (3) · Poland
원정 개요
BC north of Merra Pokhari
ABC 2 hours from foot of SW Ridge
C1 on SW Ridge (did not use this camp later)
Biv 1 on SW Face above SW Ridge past C1, after 1st serac barrier
Biv 2 after 2nd serac barrier on SW Face.
6th Oct all down to BC with heavy snowfall. Twice tried to go to ABC but not possible in deep snow and avalanching. 16 Oct did reach ABC but back to BC with more bad weather. Decided to climb alpine-style. 26 Oct again to ABC and put new tent there replacing broken tent (crushed by snow). Could not see C1.
29 Oct up alpine-style in one team of Panejko, Brys and Klincewicz and reached 5850m. 30 Oct big wind, tent poles being carried were lost and returned to Biv 1. Brys down on 30th and Jakubowski replaced him. 31 Oct crossed 2nd serac barrier in very hard ice climbing. 1 Nov Panejko fingers freezing so did not get to top; other 2 returned to biv at 2:30 pm [after summiting].
No more summit attempts because winter breaking, strong winds.
- 내부 원정 ID218
- 원본 EXPIDHIMN85301
- 대장Wieslaw Panejko
- 루트 (Route)SW Ridge-SW Face-E Ridge
- 최고 도달고도7331m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 12명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wieslaw Panejko | Poland | Leader | - | - | - |
| Tadeusz Barbacki | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Tadeusz Brys | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Andrzej Chrusciel | Poland | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |
| Janusz Ferenski | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Kazimierz Glazek | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Zdzislaw Jakubowski | Poland | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Jacek (Jerzy) Klincewicz | Poland | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Marian Sajnog | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Jozef Stepien | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Marek Trzeciakowski | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Edward Zaczynski | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |