원정 개요

Leader Kim - 24 Sept 77

Arrived today: Chang Moon-Haing, Kim Young-Do, Ko Sang-Don, Kim Byong-Joon and Lee Sang-Youn.

I think our team had luck. None of our members suffered any HA sickness, just kept moving on and weather very good.

Heavy snow at top and they had lot of problems to make route - why we made 2 attempts.

1st team very eager to climb up and tried to break world record and without oxygen overnight at 8500m. This planned to do without oxygen, sleeping bag just biv.

1st summit party almost to summit. Climbed reached over Hillary step but then exhausted from deep snow to neck but had oxygen on climb. Spiritual power zeal also reason for success.

Park frostbitten right heal but will be all right - only frostbite. Also blindness from lack oxygen 1 night.

Friendly co-operation of Sherpas
Icefall 24
HA 25

Ko: as he reached top could not be sure on top because could not find Chinese tripod and thought as wrong peak. Very confused, wanted Sherpa take photo. Felt something underfoot and found top of tripod 10 cm under snow so confirmed on right peak and very happy as alpinist and Korean. Dug more and found all of tripod. Left there after pix.

Leader wanted to send all up but placed only 2 assaults and used up all oxygen in these 2 assaults.

Korean will devote himself by improving Korean alpinism. Wants to come to Nepal: maybe Makalu.

Leader emotionally speaking very satisfied.


Jha, MFA - 16 Sept

Following 1st set back in 1st assault by Korean expedition to Everest last weeks, Koreans made program for 2nd assault:

21-year-old Ko Sang-Don and 28-year-old Pemba Nurbu reached C5 14 Sept. Were 6 supporting Sherpas who spend over night with them in C5. Those 6 supporting Sherpas returned to C4 next day moving, having left food and equipment in C5.

15 Sept in early am (04:00 hrs) Ko + P Sherpa left C5 towards summit. Reached South summit 09:30 hours and reached summit 12:50 hours and spent 1 hour on summit and returned downwards - are well.

After 3 days heavy snowfall, weather was fine on 15. They used all 28 cylinders oxygen on 15th and would have had to abandon attempt if failed on 15th.


Chang - 25 June 77

Leader Kim will probably stay at BC, even go above but maybe return to Korea.

For Everest: 4 years preparation in Korea (1 man died in training) and 2 years in Nepal. Think will succeed.

Korea Alpine Federation controlled by Korea Ministry Education.

Each city or province Alpine Federation in expedition training past 4 years. All members amateur climbers.


Chang Moon-Sam - 24 June 77

50 Sherpas above BC
30 to C2
22 to summit
15 climbing members
South Col route - using oxygen.
Advance team members - rewst arrive 4th July.
All walk to Khumbu - 700 porter for 21 tons baggage.