원정 개요

Jeff long - 22 May 77

All members now in KTM except Korich; "expedition of hypochondriacs."
Highest point was 23,000 ft, 2 ropes short of C3 site.


Jha, MFA - 20 May 77

Abandoned attempt to scale on 9th May due to illness and injury of some members and big avalanche near C2. Bad weather caused avalanches and rockfall. C2 buried under 5m snow. Team managed to clean West Face of all ropes and equipment except C2. Established BC 28 March, C2 7660m. Team left for KTM 13 May.


Johnson & Bozman - 16 May 77

Left Makalu BC 5th May; he had thrombosis, went down to lower BC to recover, tried to go back up but health wouldn't permit more climbing; she goes where he goes.

All others leaving BC in one group on 12th May. In KTM about 24th May.
Highest point reached = just under 23,000 ft by Boris and Matija probably.

Maybe made C3, maybe didn't and instead cleared mountain of all trash, fixed ropes, everything to leave it as virgin as possible.

Rock fall hazard.


Vicenzi - 11 May 77

Conley still in KTM ill
Vicenzi retinal hemorrhage
Lowe pulmonary edema
Childs cracked ribs from falling rock
Hutter couldn't sleep
Johnson bloods clots (leaving BC)
Nuefeld frostbitten toes
Vicenzi left BC 3rd with Rodney Korich who came to T'tar for rest - arrive KTM today.
2 days later Narka came down to collect porters to clear BC about now
Young terrible cold at BC
Matija grazed by rock through tent at C2 and really tired
None of girls carrying were climbing.

2 Yugos, Collins, Childs
They were working on C3 but probably abandoned it.

No strong leadership to keep people from going too high. Adv BC too high.

Food bad: breakfasts and lunches inedible at BC. HA food good, but people not eating enough to keep strength.


Pandey, MFA - 4 May 77

C2 22,000 ft, 16 April
4 members left because of health and 1 for personal family reasons.
Snow most days after 12 noon.
Big avalanche almost to BC 23 April


Al Read - 24 April 77

Mike Lowe and Peter Quesada, both suffering from high altitude sickness, left expedition (Mike 10 days ago) and are now in KTM.

Quesada left BC 1 week ago; the expedition should have had Quesada to C2 by now and on way to C3. 2 Yugoslavs very strong.

Quesda and Lowe leave for USA.


Drummond - 14 April 77

Drummond left BC 6 days ago on 8th (personal problems at home and doesn't like siege technique); almost to C1 - illnesses

Quesada - hypothermia
Johnson - pulmonary edema and embolism
Diane Spitzer - pneumonia
BC now at 18,500 feet
(old BC is left as R+R place)
Real difficulties begin at 25,000 feet and expedition hasn't much fixed rope.


Corley - 8 April 77

Geoff Corley returned to KTM from Tumlingtar yesterday afternoon hoping to return to expedition, but first to seek medical advice in KTM whether he has typhoid fever or not.


Msg dated 30 March from Korich to MFA, received KTM 7 April 77

Makalu Base camp, 28 March, 16,000 feet
Weather clear mornings afternoon clouds
Geoff Corley sick with fever and stomach disorder


Roskelley - 16 March 77

Roskelley and Burns returning to States without climbing; Roskelley ill (bladder stones?, etc).


Jeff Long - 6 March 77

2 face members arrive day after ridge; rest arrive 11th or 12th; fly to Tumlingtar - 2 + weeks to BC.

Probably South Face. Not much hope of West Face because of technical difficulty at high altitude.

No Sherpas above BC.

Relaxed expedition above BC; relaxed expedition but not so much as Fritz's.
10 really strong climbers and 5 helpers - will be leadership
3 medical oxygen only, so climbing without oxygen
KTM Guest House 51 - Long
14 - Roskelley


Roskelley - 3 March 97

Internation Makalu Expedition

John Roskelley, 28, from Spokane Wash
Dane Burns, 23, from Kellog, Idaho
West Ridge pair
15 total including 3 women (maybe climbers)
Jeff Long, 28, coleader from Boulder, Colorado. He's in Delhi, arrive maybe 4 March

USA British Yugo and Canada (?)
11 1 2 2


Roskelley & Long, co-leaders
Longs's party try West Face if any problems then South Face. West Face never tried before.
West Ridge = French 1971 route
Roskelley and Burns leave KTM soon as possible to Tumlingtar
Only Sherpas at BC
Establish BC 3rd week March at 16,000 ft at base South Face on Makalu Glacier

Roskelley and Burns 4 or 5 camps above BC; not alpine-style; others 5 or 6 camps depending on route.

Only medical oxygen; climb without oxygen; long term more a hindrance than asset; oxygen sets fail and mean extra weight.

Total cost $60,000