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Himalayan Expedition of Kawasaki Alpine Club 1977

Churen Himal East · 1977 · 봄 (1) · Japan

원정 개요

H. Miyagawa - 11 May 77

Tokuma Fuse, Hisao Miyagawa, Maasaki Maruyama and Tatsuo Katano arrive today and 2 Sherpas; others in Nepalgunj and came to KTM 2 or 3 days later.

C3 6300m 10 April day for way making C4 avalanche struck. 2 Sherpas and Miyagawa caught in ice avalanche; party on fixed rope with Sherpas ahead. Going up fixed ropes made to 6700m days before by Takao Sato and Kinshiro Miyagawa. 6700m where C4 to be pitched.

2 Sherpas, Pasang in Shanta Bhawan and Lhakpa Norbu in KTM home.
Carried down to BC after avalanche.
C2-C3 very steep.


Ranjan - 6 May 77

Helicopter went today to Churen to bring Sherpas, but couldn't find the place; will not try again because message very old and in KTM no one knowns really where expedition is.


Maruyama, et al - 29 Jan 77

4 members now in KTM; 6 others arrive 7 or 10 Feb.

Fly to Jumla about 2-3 March. Thence to north side Churen Himal to Kaya Khola with BC up Khola at about 5000m. Up Ridge of East Peak and thence along Ridge to West Peak via traverse of Central Peak.

This expedition 1st via northern side
11-12 days Jumla -> BC
5 camps above BC; C5 on ridge between West Peak and East Peak at 7300m and C4 on top West Peak.
Reach BC 15 March. Summit end April
4 Sherpas and 1 sirdar = 5
1 new member


Sato & wife

Members fly to Jumla on 16th and 17th and baggage on 19th and 20 Febuary; start caravan 23rd Feb; 15 days caravan and arrive BC about 10 March.
1 sirdar, Lhakpa Tsering
3 HA Sherpas
1 cook
1 kitchen boy, maybe to C1 or C2

Route and camps as given by Marayama, 29 Jan 1977 correct.

  • 내부 원정 ID2176
  • 원본 EXPIDCHRE77101
  • 대장Kazuhiro Sato
  • 루트 (Route)N Ridge of E Smt
  • 최고 도달고도6700m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유사고 (6)

참가자 13명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Kazuhiro SatoJapanLeader---
Hisao MiyagawaJapanDeputy Leader---
Tokuma FuseJapanClimber---
Shigeru ImaiJapanClimber---
Tatsuo KatanoJapanClimber---
Masaaki MaruyamaJapanClimber---
Kinshiro MiyagawaJapanClimber---
Takao SatoJapanClimber---
Tomoko SatoJapanClimber---
Isao SekiguchiJapanClimber---
Lhakpa Tsering SherpaNepalSirdar---
Pasang SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Lhakpa Norbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. · 1977 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1977 · 잡지 (3) · IWA
· 1977 · 잡지 (3) · IWA
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197859302/Asia-Nepal-Churen-Himal · 1977 · 웹사이트 (5) ·