원정 개요

Yoshinaga & Toriumi - 22 June 77

Weather bad, strong wind and snowfall; reason for defeat.
NW Ridge route, same route as 1976.

In March-April only acclimatization, BC established 27 April.

15 May Murata and [Sonam] Sherpa in summit attempt reached 7450m 3:30 pm and then returned because snowfall. No 2nd attempt. 1 member broken finger. No manpower.


Jha, MTA - 20 May 77

Abandoned on 16th May. Reached 7450m 15th May 3:30 pm before finally called off attempt. 2 men, Akira Murata and Sonam Sherpa, reached high point. C4 7000m 14th May at 2 pm by Nobukazu [Toriumi]. Leaving BC and reaching KTM 20 June by foot.


Johnson and Bozman of Makalu I expedition - 16 May 77

Japanese Makalu II expedition leaving their BC 17th May, They too plagued with illness; only one member healthy; they started climbing well before late April.


Jha, MFA - 13 May 77

Makalu II: Chiba U, Japanese C3 6420m on 7th May 15:00 hrs by
Akira Murata
Sonam
Sonam Tshering
Danu

All members well weather fine - snowing at base camp every morning.
(5 camps planned - NW Ridge).


Jha, MFA - 8 May 77

BC 27th April 4800m
C1 29th April 5300m
C2 2nd May 5800m

All through weather fine and all in excellent health. C2 established by Murata and 3 Sherpas.


Nobukazu Toriumi - 5 March 77

Trying 1st spring ascent. Same NW Ridge route as No Japanese success 13th Oct 5 camps. Spring warmer and longer last time from Chiba U. In 71 much snowfall and 1 dead. This expedition brings memorial for dead member from KTM and put it on a rock face. Toriumi flies to Turlingtar 10 March meets others. Main party left KTM 25 Feb to Dharan and leader by air 1 March. Started caravan 2 March and reach Sedua 15 March to change porters to cross Shipton pass. Arrive BC area 1 April (permit for bringing climbing only 28 April so officially BC 28 April).

Climbing 6 weeks with C5 7300m. C3 same as Sepyo party but main C4 much closer to C3 the Sepyo and now add C5.

Walung Dorje sirdar and 3 HA Sherpas and cook, etc.

Numata Leader - same as but comes only to KTM to meet friends and arrange for survey expedition which begins April. Some stay in Nepal to late June.