원정 개요

Correct route for 1977 Spring Austrians on Dhaulagiri I was: a pillar on South Face (according to Yves Pollet-Villard, Nov 1978).

Messner

6000m peak climbed during 1977 Spr Dhaulagiri I expedition was south-southwest of Dhaulagiri I; don't know name. Messner, Wiedemann, Jones and Dickinson went to summit around 20-25 April via East Ridge.


Habeler - 29 April 77

Habeler, Wiedemann, Dickinson and Jones made 1 recce to C1 and avalanches touched them. Very bad snow conditions this year: snow every day on 27 of 29 days at BC. Building up on face, huge avalanche destroying everything on face. No harm done to BC and members.

6100m highest point reached by Messner and Haebler, 19 April. Then decided to stop completely.

Messner and Habeler went round to west side and there seracs also falling. Wanted to have helicopter to take them round to NE Ridge on col at 5800m. Other 4 climbers would have gone to top in a week alpine-style.

Messner arrives KTM 4 May and others.


Dr. Berghold - 10 April 77

Very bad weather prevented progress from BC. Don't even know which route because clouds by 11 am and after that avalanching.

Berghold made 1 recconverse towards C1 but not decided where to put it. Berghold left BC 7 April.

Moravetz was really very sick with pulmonary edema. Now will be Ok but will have to return home when he is stronger in few days.


Messner - 22 March 77

BC 3400-4000m altitude; 2 or 3 camps with highest 6000-6500m and then alpine style with biv tent.

Up face to snow plateau or roof, not a ridge.

4 Sherpas including Pemba Tsering to beginning of face at 4200-4400m and then too difficult for them.

Whole face is difficult, "always very steep," 55-60 degrees. 1st part and very last part steepest, not so dangerous from avalanches because snow does not stay on face; too steep for it to stay; half of face is rock, half ice.

4 members, 1 doctor
5 film-makers; they have to go on face for filming.
"50% chance of success - not more."

Messner probably leaves tomorrow.


Covington - 22 March 77

BC around 18,500 feet
2 maybe 3 camps on face. Highest camp at 24,500-25,000 where fixed ropes end, then up alpine-style to SW Ridge.

2 of film team will be on face and try to go to top:
Eric Jones
Leo Dickinson
3 Sherpas will go above BC to foot of face, but not as far as C1.

Above fixed ropes will be alpine-style in down suits which are designed for bivouac.

1st 4000 feet of face maybe 70% - then another 1500-2000 ft last camp, 70-75% and solid green ice.

Over to BC there is technical climbing.
Doctor will stay in BC area.
Emergency oxygen only (at BC).

All same degree of climbing skills, but Wiedemann speaks no English.


Covington - 22 March 77

Born 29 March 47
Director of Fantasy Ridge Expeditions