원정 개요

For brief indication of Poles on Makalu climbing with French.

Ferrier & Manificat - 6 Nov 78

French route of 1951 on NW Face to Col and from col up South Ridge between 2 heavy snowfalls able to climb; in early Oct 2 in 3 days and also returned to BC.

BC 1 Oct at 5000m
ABC 2 Oct at 5300m
C1 10 Oct at 6200m
C2 20 Oct at 7000m

Helped carry 1 Polish sick members at time of early Oct snow: Bonnafoux, Henault, Ferrier.

3 members [Henault, Bonnafoux and Ferrier] reached Col and made route to 7400m and returned and 3 others reached Col on 22 and followed route. On 22 Oct Manificat alone to summit because started earlier. 600m to climb from C2. At 6:00 Manificat left C2 while other two [Lavergne and Chaix] 8:00-8:30 am with problems of overboots, waiting for sun. Much wind for 3 days.

After that no time for others to go to top. In 3 days cleared all equipment from mountain and went quickly to Tumlingtar. Would take 1 week to send others to top. For rest first in BC. No oxygen; members did all carrying above C1 because no Sherpas would climb above C1.

No accident, no illness; little frostbite Chaix.


Ferrier - 15 Aug 78

Route not sure: at first thought to take South Ridge of '54 French - but maybe slightly different.
Leave KTM 20 - 21 Sept.
Equipment arrives 15 or 16 Sept.
Other members arrive 17 Sept.
Fly to T'tar and 10 days trek to BC with 30-35 porters (800 kg baggage)
Expedition of friends and amateurism, no professional guides. Make expedition to see.
4 sherpas above BC - sirdar Mingma
BC about 4800-5000m - 8 porters to stay there - will be just below glacier.
If glacier (not steep) will put another camp where it does get steep at about 5300-5400m
C2 at about 6000-6200m
Little tent near pass at 6800-7000m - not possible to make biv.
5 bottles oxygen for medical and possibly in last camp for sleeping so at least 2 to summit.
Arrive BC end Sept.
Summit about 20 Oct, but "in fact it will depend on north wind."