원정 개요

BC at glacier north of Hindung, south of Ganesh IV
ABC
C1 before South Face
C2 on South Face (1 Nov had pitched tent at 6100m and next day moved it higher)
Biv on South Face.

3 climbers returned to BC 2 Nov after having pitched C1 at 6300m. They said after night avalanches, snow very deep and did not know difficulties in route above C2, but planned to climb steep section above C2 to col just east of summit and thence, alond East Ridge to top. Route above C1 was difficult because of big seracs and always steep; had fixed 2 ropes in this section between C1 and C2 and when they descended on 2 Nov, one rope had been taken away by avalanche. 5th noon, 3 climbers started up again and could be seen very short time because of fog. They planned to go to ABC, 6 Nov to C1, 7th Nov to C2 and 8th Nov to top, perhaps with bivouac in descent - could not be seen again.

10 Nov saw a trace of them and could see every day there after until left BC 19 Nov. 2 Sherpas from KTM went up to search reached C2 site on 23 Nov, but found no camps ABC to C2. Found a tent from C1 at 6700m. Searchers were nearly hit by avalanche and think camps and climbers taken by avalanche. Helicopter search of 20 Nov saw no traces.

Did not follow originally planned because more difficult, very steep, required more rope to be fixed than they had with them.


Ang Tshering (Asian Tkg) - 28 Nov 85

2 Sherpas climbed to 6700m on 21 and 22nd Nov, found tent, gas stove and food but no bodies.

Dr Bancer, LO and Sherpas arrived KTM this morning by taxi from Trisuli; no trace of 3 climbers.


Ang Tshering (Asian Tkg) - 22 Nov 85

Sirdar went up to ABC site but no tent there to be seen. Probably buried under snow. Mountain not visable from BC until 10 Nov because of clouds. On 10 Nov no tents visable at any campsites.

20 Nov helicopter search by LO and a Sherpa: took 4 turns around mountain but saw no sign of tents, people, anything. BC has been evacuated.


Asian Tkg - 17 Nov 85

Members should have returned to BC 11 Nov. LO left BC 14 Nov to report they had not returned. 3 strong Sherpas leave KTM early tomorrow for search and perhaps helicopter will go later if Polish embassy say so. Doctor still at BC with sirdar.