원정 개요

Coudray & Pollet-Villard - 10 Nov 78

New route BC to C1 which was very safe from avalanche of snow or icefall. In 1975 5 people dead between BC and C1 at the end of Oct. 1st Nov less than -25 degrees in night and 100 km/hr winds. Could make only 10-20 m/day in this cold wind and last part of pillar very difficult technical and camp not wear heavy clothing which gets in way in rock technical climbing. Sherpas did not want to climb after 5 Nov because said too cold and windy. Sherpas very experienced.

250m more to go to top of pillar then long and gentle slope to summit.

3rd Nov - could not go out of tent of C4 because of wind.

4th Nov - to C3 and that evening decided to stop: Sherpas did not want to go on and weather worse every day now know exactly route, way make 1 camp more between C3 and C4 very long (5 hours with good acclimatization and load of 8-10 kg only) and make depot at BC side and BC higher. Will come earlier in season to reach highest point 10 Oct.

After 18 Oct's C4 established lost 1 week with bad weather.
No accidents to members, no illness or frostbite.
Coudray and Pollet-Villard left BC by helicopter.
8 Nov - others leave BC today, on 8 Nov some in C1.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 78

Abandoned on 5 Nov because high wind and too cold; that day reached 7300m (when and who not said).

Leave BC 10 Nov except 2 Coudray who came yesterday who are well. All well.

Went Dhaulagiri I next by SE Ridge again.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 Nov 78

French on Dhaulagiri I delayed by strong winds and snowfall; from C4 could go up only 300m. All well and waiting (about 1 week ago).


Mrs Pollet-Villard - 23 Oct 78

C6 about 6700m - established 21 or 22 Oct 7000m.

Route difficult, very steep and narrow and sharp, still expect to reach summit; 700m high pillar from 7000-7500m difficult.

Sherpa Dawa Tenzing fell down a steep slope 1 week ago, hurt hip and leg.

Weather good in am and above the clouds it is good, but cold and windy.

Mrs Pollet-Villard went to BC 10 days by foot, arrive BC 2-3 days, stays until 1 Nov in KTM.

All members in good health. Now 5 members in BC.


Coudray - 4 Sept 78

Route tried by Japanese this spring at first and then went to successful route, SW Pillar.

10 climbers and 2 doctors for research with tape recorders on each member; they are climbers too but only to do medical work.

Dr Grevy and Blanc arrived KTM 23 Sept for 2 days in KTM. All others will be here tomorrow.

Leave tomorrow by plane to Pokhara; leave Pokhara 6 Sept. 220-250 porters to BC at 3600m where Japanese had theirs; arrive 19-20 Sept.

5 or 6 high camps depending on route.

C1 4600m near icefall
C2 5000m at Col (ABC)
C3 5600m on ridge
C4 6100m on ridge
C5 7000m on ridge just
Before last camp great difficulties: very steep rock
C6 7500m - on top of difficulty and beginning of final ridge.
Maybe a 7th very light camp

8 Sherpas and 5 local porters to lower camps
Nawang Dorje is sirdar

Are carrying oxygen in case of real difficulties in climb, but will try climb without including none for sleeping.

Hope summit end of Oct; if not by 10 Nov, not possible because of wind and cold, and must be in Chamonix for opening of winter season in Dec.