원정 개요

Michael Holz - 25 May 77

No C4 established. Holz also reached about 6800m as had Heitzmann and Baumann to bring down equipment. No accidents, no frostbite.


Jha, MFA - 13 May 77

From LO on 10 May: abandoned summit attempt following bad weather and heavy snowfall of 8 and 9 May. All members returned to BC. Snowfall so heavy couldn't recover equipment in C3 but are trying.


Heitzmann - 11 May 77

Heitzmann & Baumann arrive KTM yesterday evening

BC 28 March at 3850m
C1 29 " at 4960m
C2 1 April at 5600m
C3 24 April at 6320m

Month of April estimate 10m new snow. Between C3 and C3 very dangerous with avalanches. C3 turned out to be in safe place "but dangerous to come to." No avalanches hit camps or climbers.

27 April - Heitzmann and Baumann went to C3 after snowfall and on 28th went up near 7000m to look for place for C4 but again snowfall came up. Flagged way after snowstorm from noon 28 to afternoon 2 May.

28/29 April - tent broke in C3, completely covered with snow. Heitzmann and Baumann in tent on 2 May afternoon started to go down, but flags to C4 covered and shoveled way down 100m and returned to C3. 3 May again started down always shoveling and 150m very steep slope went down vertically by skis and even this hard work and in late afternoon reached C2.

Heitzmann and Baumann had to leave expedition 10 May because vacation finished; so 4th to BC and 5th to KTM.

Winkler also must start trek tour to South America 1 June and he also coming earlier but waited for sunny day for more photos. Route really on north side but is usual route. When Heitzmann and Baumann came down others waiting in C2 for better weather.

Need camp about 7000m and another 7500-7600m. If weather improves, others may reach summit. Good Sherpa crew and other members in good health.

Winkler stayed at least 2 days longer; at Shanker (or Siddhartha); Lama at International Trekking will know.


Jha MFA - 9 May 77

Retreating to C2 on 2 May. Likely to reach C2 on 3rd or 4th May.

Winkler and 2 others returning to KTM 10 May because of incessant heavy snowfall. Leaves total expedition 4 including leader. LO has impression of success very remote.


Jha, MFA - 6 May 77
(from LO on 27 April)

After 4 days weather very good; several days waiting; weather improved and able established C3 6400m 24 April.

C3 very dangerous so no one can stay there. Walter Heitzmann and 2 Sherpas Ang Nima and Girme Sherpa made route to C3, but did not stay there, sent to C2.

Above 5000m weather good but in C1 always heavy snow fall and mist. All members safe and sound and well.


Lenser - 8 March 77

Normal route, Japanese ladies route. Have not seen mountain so don't know of other possibilities, so go northeast route from Samagaon.

Leave KTM about 13 March by truck to Trisuli Bazaar.
Sonam Girme member of expedition and sirdar plus 9 other HA Sherpas.
Expect to use climbing oxygen.
Reach BC 26-27 March if leave KTM 13th.
Summit by end of April if weather good. 5 camps above base with C5 at about 7600m.
International trekkers handling expedition and Mrs Shrestha for mail.

Lenser probably oldest climber on 8000m peak.

Schlamp (financer of expedition) goes to BC by helicopter early April.


Letter from Lenser, C1 - 9 April 77

We had some days bad weather, but I hope to get to Camp 3 after some days. All are very well and hopefull.


Letter from Gerhard Lenser - 27 March 77

We arrived here on 25th, but due to snowfall yesterday and tonight we have not established our basecamp. We will do tomorrow.