원정 개요

Dufour & Lasserre - 27 Oct 78

Abandoned climbing 21 Oct; decided to stop on 21 and left BC 23 Oct
Others arrive KTM ex-Lukla 28 Oct; leave 7 Nov.

Reached 6000m, put 800m of ropes and took off 600m leaving only 200m and 1 ladder in difficult part.

BC 4950m
C1 5650m
Highest point 6000m

At C1 2m snow on the rock and in one day only 40m and 9 days to 6000m from C1; very deep, dangerous snow very unstable.

Strategy was to put fixed ropes all the way and all to go to top; security was first priority: not to climb alpine-style; but with this snow, impossible to fix rope in this unstable loose snow and this impossible by Himalayan or alpine techniques.

Clemenson on Pumori Spr 1975 and Dr. on French Everest 1974. Both had experienced Nepal Himalaya expeditions with deaths.

If snow was hard, very easy because difficult rocks would be under snow. Found old ropes of 1961.

6000m reached on 20 Oct by Petrignet and Raphoz and by Dufour, Lasserre and Vincent on 21 Oct.

Returned on 21 Oct to see what situation was and decide whether further progress possible.

No accident, frostbite or illness.

If monsoon very strong and late as now, possible - perhaps spring best.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78

Abandoned 18 Oct. Had made C1 but no information regarding C1's date and place; this highest camp.

Very difficult route.


Clemenson & Gerard - 13 Sept 78

2 arrived last March (11th) and 6 now on 25th. 2 stay here until 20th in KTM and then to Lukla with cargo.

Climb via SW Ridge, same as 1961
BC about 5000m
C1 on first step of ridge about 6000m
C2 just before technically difficult rock towers about 6200m
C3 just after 2 towers, move C1 to make C3 on icy flat area where in room for camp.

All at BC by 1 Oct, summit by 21 Oct.

Most difficult parts are rock towers and mixed ice and rock above.

5 Sherpas above BC
Sirdar = Pemba Lama of Junbesi
Oxygen only for medical use