원정 개요

Zintl - 31 Oct 78

6th member on 19th Oct was Schaeuble.
1 other 20 minutes (100m) reached below summit Pfundstein.
South Ridge route - 3 camps: C3 at 6300m.
Lackner fell down couloir and then into crevasse.
Base camp was at 4450m.
No other accidents or illness, no frostbite.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 31 Oct 78

Summit of Putha Hiunchuli:

08 Oct (from first group)
7 members + 2 Sherpas (see below)

12 Oct (from first group): left Nepal 20 Oct
Gunter Sturm (leader)
Max Stueckl
Theo Zunterer
Ludwig Huber
Ang Chepal Sherpa

19 Oct (from 2nd group): left KTM 3rd Nov
Udo Zehetleitner
Wilhelm Odenthal
Wolfgang Lutz
Mrs Angelika Zintl
Fritz Zintl (leader)
Gerhard Schaeuble

Thus total of 20 have climbed mountain. All are well and leaving BC for KTM on 24 Oct.


Col. Ongdi - 31 Oct 78

Sturm and party stayed behind Vogler's group to make 2nd ascent of Putha Hiunchuli and flew to KTM on same day Vogler's group came from Pokhara. Both groups left Nepal together on 20 Oct.


Lackner - 17 Oct 78

Fell 40m into crevasse near C2 about 4-5 days ago. Cuts on face and left side leg and arm at first had not feeling, now feels like needles. Hopes to go home with first group.

Also arrived by helicopter today from BC: Heinz Hagg who had altitude problems.


Peter Vogler - 17 Oct 78

Vogler and 7 arrive KTM today and rest tomorrow. All well with his group. Ministry's report of summiters on 8 Oct correct. No problems climbing and no accidents, etc - all well.

1 member 2nd group Bernd Lackner of Munich came to KTM by helicopter after fall in crevasse near C2, Vogler heard.


As the first group of German climbers who conquered 7246m Putha Hiunchuli in the Nepalese Himalayas on 8th October began arriving here today from the mountains, having walked part of the way from their base camp, two members of the second group of German Alpine Club members, who began climbing the same mountain on 11th October, were evacuated today from base to KTM by helicopter because of injuries and illness.

Bernd Lackner, 33 a biochemist from Munich and a bachelor, fell 40m into a crevasse near the second high altitude camp at 5750m on Putha Hiunchuli four or five days ago. He is not quite sure which and suffers from superficial cuts about the face and a sensation in his left arm and leg which he describes as being like needles pricking him. He told Reuters from his hospital bed there this evening that several days ago he had no feeling in these limbs at all, and he believes he is getting better. He hopes to go home to Germany with the first group, who leave here on 20 Oct.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 15 Oct 78

8 Oct climbed by 7 members and 2 Sherpas:
Peter Vogler
Dieter Holzl
Herbert Kaestler
Lothar Reiser
Franz Neubauer
Heinz Kobler
Martin Andwander
Ang Pasang Sherpa
Nawa Temba Sherpa

Probably from where they made assault: C3 6360m on 2 Oct. 2nd group reached BC 9 Oct and will start climbing on 11 Oct.


Sturm - 11 Sept 78

Leave KTM 12 Sept, 8-10 days to BC via Kaphe Khola
South Ridge route of '72 Japanese expeditions
Maybe 3 high camps maybe 4 (probably 3)
5 Sherpas above BC, Ang Temba sirdar
Summit about 8-10th Oct for 1st group

2nd group will arrive BC a few days before 2nd finishes and will use 1st group's fixed ropes, tents, etc; summit 21-22 Oct.