원정 개요

Scherzer, leader German Kang Guru 1983 expedition - 13 April 83

Route in 1978 was from west, not east [my notes of 9 Oct 78 say approach would be via Pisang, which is due west of Kang Guru].


Froidl - 14 Nov 78

Route was NW Ridge

BC 19 Oct 3500m
Biv 20 Oct 4800m
C1 21 Oct 5200m
C2 24 Oct 6000m

Highest point 25 Oct, 6600-6700m, by Schmitt and Traunik.

All sick: bad bronchitis with fever. Had fixed programme so could not stay longer and no porters, so must take horses and yaks. Also had heavy snow, but this not the cause of stopping;
actually heavy snow between biv and C1.

Other problem was Sherpas did not receive all equipment they demanded and only a few were willing to climb to C1.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism

BC 19 Oct
C1 20 Oct 4800m
High-point 6790m


Froidl - 9 Oct 78

Route is NW Ridge = 1955 Germans. On climbing route, first have 2000m rock wall on north side then little ice wall to ridge.

2 fixed camps above BC
C1 5600m at top of rock wall
C2 6200m under ice wall

Base at 3500m at beginning of rock wall.

Leave today 1:00 pm by Germans to Dumre and then walk up Marshyangdi. Starting trek today. 10-12 days to BC depending on bridges and whether necessary go via Pisang.

BC 17 or 19 Oct
8 Sherpas above BC
"12 days for the mtn," then to Manang, Muktinath, Jomsom and fly to KTM from Jomsom 8 Nov.

Commercial climb: members have hobby of climbing with most 40 years old, but 1 woman 20 years and 1 man 60 years. Hauser will make this expedition to Kang Guru every year.

Germans doctors to do physiological tests - meet at Dumre
Miss Ursul Welsch [doctor or girl friend?]
Mrs Ludwig Gutsclure, Germany?
Mr Wolfgang Hoschka, Germany