원정 개요

BC at Japanese BC of 1981
C1 at shoulder below icefall coming off SW Ridge.

7 Oct 4 sets off from C1 to base of rock climb, avoiding danger of icefall but involving 1500 ft of rock climbing. Visability became zero in clouds and became disoriented. At 16,000 ft cached equipment and returned to C1. That night snowing and spent next 5 nights at C1 hoping for better weather. Now would need 14 days to climb mountain, but had 9 days time left. Took 3 days to evacuate C1 and no one could reach cache. Was another week of bad weather (deep snow). Had gambled weather would permit climb but it didn't; avalanches off mountain every 15 minutes.