원정 개요

C1 moved slightly down because little crevasse at 6200m - originally at 6200m.

C4 on Makalu La. Last occupation 26/27 Oct. Wind so strong decided to abandon attempt. 11 members reached C4 in period 21-6 Oct.

Only a few meters above Col reached, trying to get better radio connection with KTM, but wind so strong whipping pieces of ice like stone and tips of fingers frostbitten.

Problem was too late: if had one more week, would have reached summit. Lost 1 week at Pakistan-India border, 3 weeks in Delhi including truck breakdown (Indian truckers did not want to brave floods and robbers).

Route was French 1954 route = northwest side. From Col would have gave up NW Ridge; and French had an extra camp below Poles C3 with a long traverse which Poles did not make between C2 and C3. Probably same route as 1978 spring expedition led by Dr Warth.

Mlynarczyk: 1.60m fresh snow 3 days and 2 nights; he was sleeping and killed by avalanche at 4:00 am on 6 Oct.

Wolf: became ill from altitude. French and Poles tried to get him to BC in heavy snowfall and took 14 hours to do so.

Poles and French same route to Col
French BC about 500m
C1 - 50m apart
C2 - French 100m higher than Poles
C3 - same place: very close - fixed ropes below C3 together

French used Polish ropes above C3 and did not make a C4 but went to their summit (Makalu II) from C3.


Ferrier (Makalu II) - 6 Nov 78

Polish unsuccessful. Reached Col only. 1 sick member arrive today, rest in KTM after 1 week.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 19 Oct 78

Expedition continuing climbing. Mlynarczyk alone in tent - only his tent covered by snow so no one else injured.

BC 27 Sept 4700m
C1 28 Sept 5250m
C2 3 Oct 6200m


Kurczab & Glogoczowski - 15 Aug 78

Northwest side (same as French 1954 and this spring at first) but from Makalu Col straighy up NW Ridge.

2 women members - made first women's ascent Gashurbrum II 1975: Anna Okopinska went to C3 on Lhotse.

Only 4 here now - 3 more with truck somewhere+13 members probably today in Patna and go direct to Biratnagar. Truck also to Biratnagar and 1-2 to KTM with passports. Fly baggage Biratnagar/Tumlingtar.

BC at usual place - 5000m
C5 at Col 7400m
C6 on ridge about 7800-7900m
No Sherpas to save money; have enough Poles; only hire cook and 2 helpers

Established BC about 15 Sept - summit late Oct, which starts to be late.
Use oxygen for climbing above Col and sleeping on col.


18 Aug 78

Truck 21 Aug at Biratnagar, hope for flights to Tumlingtar 25 Aug.
Start caravan after 25 Aug and reach BC 10 Sept.


Mlynarczyk's body had been buried near base camp, which is at 4700m, and the expedition's climbing continues. No other member of the the member of the team was even injured by the avalanche.


5 June 2017 - Anna Okopinska

The avalanche happened in the night 5/6 Oct in the usual Makalu BC 4850m. After 63 hours snowfall, there was 1.5m deep snow in BC. About 3:00 am, a silent snowslide from the low moraine has deeply covered the tent in which Andrzej was sleeping alone. He was dead when taken off in 30 min. The same night our 3-person team was descending Jan Wolf who suffered from HAPE from C1 to BC in the heavy snowstorm. Terrible night.