원정 개요

Bianchi - 7 Nov 78

BC about 3900m at end Sept.

C1 under South Face of East Ridge not (secondary summit), maybe called Nampa I (Pt 6700m at about 4980m).

C2 about 10 Oct at about 5650m.

C3 on 13 Oct at 6300m probably correct.

Summit news correct: 16 Oct team only attempt for summit.

No more summit attempts because C1 to top: C1 to C2 = glacier (little dangerous because of slides), C2 to top technical difficulties with very steep mixed rock and ice C3 to top.

Camp altitudes maybe too low from C3 to summit more than 700m or about 700m vertically.

4 summiters left C3 5:00 or 6:00 am and reached top about 2:00 pm.

Lack of time also prevented other summit attempt and Sherpas going above C3; took longer to reach BC than expected and then took time to determine route.

No accident, illness and frostbite.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 3 Nov 78

Summit 16 Oct at 2:00 pm

1) Cesa Bianchi
2) Angelo Rocca
3) Maurizio Maggi
4) Vittorio Tamagni

Cloudy on summit; while descending, Maggi slipped few meters, but climber roped to him pulled him up and no serious injury.

C3 and C2 evacuated on 17th and on 18th all in BC; left BC 20th.

C3 6300m 13 Oct on East Ridge of Api.


Shailendra Raj Sharma - 8 Oct 78

Api Base Camp established 29 Sept at 3700m


Tedeschi - 8 Sept 78

South Face to see, then choose route. Think can try SW Ridge, route of Japanese in 1971 and 1973. Permission for South Face which is full of seracs, so must find route free of danger and this may mean SW or SE Ridge.

Approach march via Chamlia Khola. BC could be any place south of Api depending on what they find as BC site and as route.

BC about 4000-4500m. On 3000m of face need 5 or 6 camps but depends on problems of the climb.

4 Sherpas above BC.
No oxygen for climbing and sleeping, only 2 little bottles for medical use.
13 climbers and 1 doctor.
Leave 13 Sept from Delhi and enter Nepal at Pitoragath, arrive BC about 30 Sept.
Summit after 3-4 weeks of climbing.
No members may come to KTM after climbing finished; depends on whether have any time left.


Culola Naionale D' Alta
Montagna
via Silvio Pellico 6, Milano
(address of Milan section of Italian Alpine Club)

Milan Expedition to Mt. Api

The four summiters reached the top in cloudy weather at 2:00 pm on 16th October, according to the spokesman. Presumably they went to the top from the expedition's Camp 3, which had been pitched at 6300m on Api's East Ridge three days earlier.

While descending from the summit, Maggi slipped and fell a few meters, but the colleague to whom he was roped was able to arrest his fall, and Maggi sustained only minor injuries. (The colleague's name is not known here). Camps 3 and 2 (5650 meters) were evacuated on 17 October and all members safely in BC on 18th October. The team left BC on 20th October on their journey home.