원정 개요

Schmutz - 1 Oct 84

Indignantly denies 1978 ascent was via East Ridge and only to an East Summit; were definitely on North Ridge to main summit.


Dr Joerg Beil (German-Swiss Tilicho exped Spr 1980) - 3 April 80

French Tilicho: Aut 1978. Biel thinks French climbed East Ridge to an east summit only, not main summit.


Tilicho leader (Emin) - 18th Oct 1978

Very poor, only 1 Sherpa.

If send more to summit would take 1 week to put them there with supplies which members must carry up. 70 cms snow and wind - often 1 hour, no tracks - for descent no tracks.

Want make climb as in Alps without many Sherpas and many camps. Necessary to work for one or 2 members on top, and even to put 2 on top would have required too much unnecessary time effort.

Must be in France 26 Oct and report for work on 27th Oct.

BC 20m near Tilicho Lake. 1 hour to foot of ridge, then fixed rope for 6 days to make C1 - 1000m difficult to C1 site on East Ridge.

Schmutz went to top without any thing on his back, so other member [Emin] had to carry reaching all way to top.

Avalanches on face but not on expedition's ridge.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 78

Summit by Emmanuel Schmutz. From only one high camp. Team effort so satisfied with one man on top. Much snow. Leader and deputy leader now in KTM; arrived yesterday evening; rest here after 4 days.


Schmutz - 13 Sept 78

Pokhara-Dumre-Marshyangdi-Tilicho Lake

BC at 4900m near Lake route is East Ridge, we think, but not sure since no one has been on mountain before.

All now in KTM. Leave for Pokhara Saturday if possible.
Arrive BC about 29 Sept; 12 days march with 40 porters
2 Sherpas above BC
Only 1 camp; as much as possible alpine-style; very little fixed rope if any
C1 about 6000m where angle of ridge changes.
Oxygen only medical
Summit by end Oct. Depends on mountain's conditions: maybe very quick after 4-5 days acclimatization at BC.
Back in KTM by 26 Oct is target.
Most difficult 300m very steep below C1 and 300m above C1 - D grade.