원정 개요

Bigio (& Nottoris) - 25 Oct 78

Route was SW Ridge. Problem of much snow as on Nuptse. In beginning: 1 day after reached BC had 2 days and waited for it to avalanche (put advance camp lower to get supplies somewhere before could go up).

C1 on col 6120m 11 Oct just 10m below arete dug hole in ice for 3 tents: camp on not possible because of wind

Opened new way above col. Rock passage of 40 degrees very difficult; made C2 then at 6500m 16 Oct.

Had some wind but not terrible.

Summit on 18th by Tettamanti, Zimmermann and Sganzini. Left C2 at 3:00 am and on top at noon. Very cold (-25 degrees C) with head lamps and nearly full moonlight. Left so early because such long way. Returned to C2 at 6:00 pm after dark very delicate snow-covered arrete enroute.

Next day, Nottaris, Zuend and Pasang Norbu to top. 2-3 hours less time going up because track already made.

22 Oct Korell, Burmann and Ponzio reached summit: on top about 10 am after 3:00 am departure.

Others to reach KTM on 31 Oct, now in BC. Nottaris goes to BC tomorrow in helicopter returning. No other attempts for summit. Bigio supposed to be with 3rd group but pulse too fast.

No accident, frostbite, etc - no trouble except doctor Chiesa.

Ama Dablam and Germans on Everest gave oxygen for doctor when heard of Dr's trouble.


Dr. John Dickinson - 25 Oct 78

Chiesa died this morning about 5:30. Never was breathing for himself - effects of high altitude. This is a problem for doctors: there is no one to care for them when they themselves become ill.


Bigio (Crystal Hotel)

Dr Chiesa from Pheriche 4-5 days ago pulmonary and cerebral edema. Bigio, Chiesa and Nottaris arrived by helicopter. Carried from BC to Pheriche. Never acclimatized but wouldn't go down says Peter. To hospital very ill, unconscious and not breathing by himself.

Chiesa was unconscious and unable to breathe without artificial assistance as he was lifted from the helicopter and rushed to hospital here. An American Doctor, Peter Hackett, who spends much time in Nepal studying and caring for cases of high altitude sickness was at the Nepal Rescue Association's rescue post not very far from the Swiss BC. The leader of the expedition, Romolo Nottaris and a member Vittorio Bigio, accompanied Chiesa to KTM, taking turns working the rubber bladder which was pumping air into his lungs. He is suffering from both cerebral and pulmonary edema, which means that body fluids have not been normally eliminated and instead have collected in his head and lungs.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78

Summit 18 & 19
18 Oct Fausto Tettamanti (deputy leader), Zimmermann, Claude

19 Oct 1) Romolo Nottaris, leader
2) Tiziano Zuend
3) Sirdar Pasang Norbu Sherpa, 25

No news re-further climbing, weather or health. No camp news above BC.


Afshar - 14 Sept 78

SW Ridge route of Japan 1973, etc. Technically challenging and this team has almost no expedition and Himalayan experience.

All in KTM: Afshar arrive 8 days ago and rest yesterday
Leave KTM 16 Sept, by road to Lamosangu and walk
150 porters
8 Sherpas and sirdar above BC
BC little higher than Gorak Shep at 5200m
2 or 3 high camps with highest about 6600-6700m
25 days BC -> summit
Oxygen medical only