원정 개요

Expedition's goals were to scale Lhotse and do research on cardio-vascular adaptation to high altitude. Came to Nepal very late in season, delayed by professional duties at home. From 2 Dec and no wind at all on 5 Dec. On 24 Nov attempted to pitch C3 at 6400m but had to retreat 100m below its site: impossible to stay at these altitudes because of terrible wind. Left BC 29 Nov for KTM.


Dr. Wibin, Swiss Lhotse Expedition - 9 Dec 78

From Col between Lhotse and Island Peak; SE Face = new route
BC at 5300m on 16 Nov just when Island Peak on border of moraine; cross glacier to reach face.

2 goals:
1) to climb Lhotse
2) research on cardio-vascular adaptation to H.A. Very careful cardiac examination at Geneva University before exercise during and after with blood samples taken. Will do same again in Geneva next March (11 Dec) to see if difference in oxygen consumption by cardiac muscle after long stay at H.A. People thought could not climb 8000m without oxygen.

Wind was increasing since Nov 11th and decreasing from Dec 2nd just when we came down, and almost no wind at all Dec 5th. Pilots say jet stream not yet really built up. Could not climb above 6500m so experiment not complete: members should stay for 2 weeks at least at 7000m to see effect on cardiac oxygen consumption (cardiac metabolism).

If true there is effect on heart after long stay at H.A. Of importance to mountaineers and others such as Olympics at Mexico City.

9 members, leader Josef Fauchere, mountain guide; all members Swiss except Wibin who is Belgian.

4 HA Sherpas; Ang Tsering, sirdar of Namche: was on
Japanese 1976
Japanese 1975 Everest
Italian 1973 Everest

Had 2 high camps
C1 at 5600m
C2 5800m

During attempt to establish C3 at 6400m had to retreat because impossible to stay there with terrible wind; reached Friday 24 Nov 100m below C3 site = highest point reached. Left BC on 29 Nov to KTM.

Were unable to come earlier because of professional duties at home; if come again will come earlier.

Fauchere was with Dolf Reist (76) for 20th anniversary of Swiss ascent of Everest; went to Khumbu together.