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American Jannu Expedition 1978

Jannu · 1978 · 봄 (1) · USA

원정 개요

Roskelley - 29 April 78

4 or 6 members next time on an expedition. Kim's cough tearing apart his ribs - when a guy's a sick and you're only 2, you can't take a chance. All the gear was at C2 at 18,500-19,000 ft. Went past C2 above the neve. At least 3 weeks more of climbing left. Route super safe - was on New Zealand route, any other would have been impossible without more people.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 19 April 78

On 13 April while going to make C2 when at 19,000 ft, Kim Schmitz became ill and therefore abandoned ascent. Reached BC 14 April. Now going to Kangchenjunga side - coming to KTM in a week.


Roskelley & Schmitz - 7 March 78

North side - hope different route from New Zealanders
5 members - maybe some above base but probably not.

Sonam Girme sirdar, but no Sherpas above base (no insurance or equipment for it). Fly Biratnagar 9th. From Dharan 11th and 17 days trek to base at 14,500 ft (same as New Zealand). 3 camps to the big face and probably from there a hanging tent and alpine-style. Highest camp maximum 19,000 ft.

Maximum 30 days climbing. No oxygen at all.

  • 내부 원정 ID2152
  • 원본 EXPIDJANU78101
  • 대장John Roskelley
  • 루트 (Route)N Face
  • 최고 도달고도5800m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
John Fenton Charles RoskelleyUSALeader---
James H. (Jim) StatesUSADeputy Leader---
Chris Howard ChandlerUSAClimber---
Alan J. GivlerUSAClimber---
James Dell (Jim) MorrisseyUSAClimber---
Drummond RennieUSAClimber---
Kim SchmitzUSAClimber---
Todd S. ThompsonUSAClimber---
Sonam Girme SherpaNepalSirdar---

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