원정 개요

Yagihara - 27 Oct 78

Kogure alone at 6400m, about 7 ropes up above narrow C4 maybe slipped on ice ridge and then hanging; found in afternoon; he had left C4 8:00 am.

Normally 2-3 hours C4 to C5 and sent 2 members from C5 (Hajimo Abe and Kazumi Kaneko) to search and they found him dead; must have slipped at 8:30-9:00; maybe hit hard on ice.

Body buried near C4. Could not carry down more, too difficult and dangerous.

2nd summit success on 21 Oct, two days after first success.

Yagihara should have gone to summit on 21 Oct, but instead had to take body down.

SE Ridge route. Very long and very difficult. Found American red fixed rope (but could not use). Japanese got onto ridge below Americans point of getting onto it.

Agreed "its a big mountain - too big for us."


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78

18 Oct established last camp C7 7550m.
19 Oct 3 members reached summit, stayed 20 minutes, returned to last C7 same day.
2nd ascent will be attempt on 20 Oct.
3rd group will also try summit.


Ranjain, Express House - 2 Oct 78

Dhaulagiri I leader came to KTM via Jomsom to talk to his Japanese office; was here 3 days and left for BC by helicopter this morning.

Expedition continues; bodies not found.


Yagihara - 2 Aug 78

SE Ridge, same at 1973 US 1st goal
All except Dr. now in KTM; Dr. arrive 5 Aug
Leave KTM for Pokhara 6 Aug; caravan starts 8-10 Aug with about 200 porters
Reach BC in 10 days at 4200m

So early because not much experience on Dhaulagiri I in autumn and want to be before strong winds.

7 high camps, C7 at 7800m
Summit attack 1st week Oct, oxygen for climbing; have about 25 bottles.
10 HA Sherpas and 6 low Sherpas from BC to C3.
Lhakpa Tenzing = sirdar, but he not yet in KTM.

Think BC to C4 most difficult part; above expect not so difficult: top ridge not so sharp in autumn because of snow; below C4 very steep rock.