원정 개요

Iwa-to-Yuki (1979)

Iwa-to-Yuki reports that a tent at C3 burned down due to a gas leak which delayed the summit bid.


Kawani - 1 Nov 78

Reached TBC 12 Sept
BC 24 Sept
C3 9 Oct
Highest pt - 15 Oct by Hiroyoshi Kawami and Sherpa Changri.

14 Oct - fire in C3 by stove by Sherpa.
Attack day 15 Oct: late start and reached 7500m 4:00 pm; no time; Changri's toes freezing so turned back to save his toes. If final camp higher, think success. Very long way to summit.

Only 3 climbing members:
Onishi returned to Japan during approach march
Yasuda sick: pulmonary edema so stayed TBC; now in KTM Ok; no climbing at all.

Attack day: Yoji Udagawa in TBC resting. Masaaki Kizaki in attack on 15 Oct but turned back 7300m because tired. So when not successful on 15 Oct, no one to make another attempt on summit. Hiroyoshi Kawami also tired. So climbing finished.

Weather very good C1 and above; below C1 clouds and snow.

No accidents, frostbite or other illness.
Leave KTM after about 2 weeks.


Onishi - 19 Aug 78

Same route as this Spr. (Nagoya Alpine Club) East Ridge from South Face
1971 Japanese Dhaulagiri V same route also)

This only safe route from south - repeating route of this spring because already made plan and because approach very long via north.

1978 spring: 9 Japanese climbers and 5 HA Sherpas
All members in KTM 18 Aug
Leave for Pokhara 27 Aug; 14 days caravan to BC with 60 porters
Temporary camp at 3700m
BC 4900m in Chhonbardan Glacier
C3 7000m

1978 spring C3 6600m, C4 7250m; biv 7550m

Most difficult part from C3 to summit because after ice face, high altitude for first time in Himalayas for all members.

2 HA Sherpas
No oxygen at all (1978 spr oxygen and in fact stopped climbing after 1st successful summit part on top because ran out of oxygen).