원정 개요

Mitsui - 26 Oct 78

10 Oct very nice day, very clear and little wind. All 6 to top on 10 Oct. 9 Oct route making putting in ropes. C1 to C3 very dangerous icefall. Got onto East Ridge between SE Peak and South Peak near South Peak from north side.

All 6 arrive here this evening well but little frostbite. No accidents or serious illness.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 78

All 6 members reached top 10 Oct 14:15 hours.
C3 8 Oct- 6150m
Expedition finished - all well.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78

C2 1 Oct - 5470m


Mitsui - 24 Aug 78

3 members here now and 3 arrive tomorrow.
1-3 Sept leave KTM. 3-5 Sept leave Pokhara. 12 days to BC via Ghasa and Thulobugin. BC on glacier east of peak at 4200m.

Route up snow face to col between South and Central peaks and thence on snow ridge, North Ridge of South Peak to summit - or up ridge on east side of South Peak.

C1 under icefall 4900m
C2 top icefall on plateau - 5500m
C3 col or on plateau on east side 6300m

Summit about 15 Oct.
No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.
1 sirdar Ang Temba - only Sherpa above BC.

Mitsui has taken over leadership since Yamada banned from climbing in Nepal for 5 years after "Nampa" expedition.

From Shinshu University. Climbed Jettiborani this spring - "emergency leader."

Route up snow face to Col between South and Central peaks and thence on snow ridge. North Ridge of South Peak to summit.
C1 under icefall
C2 top icefall on plateau
C3 col or on plateau - 5500m