원정 개요

Ohmo - 3 Nov 78

All members arrive yesterday afternoon.
Route = SW Ridge, same as 1974 Gamagori Alpine Club (SW Ridge to South Face).

Hoped to send 3 parties to summit, but 1 member (doctor) not climbing up and sirdar broke right thumb and put out of action.

No accidents (except sirdars thumb), illness or frostbite.

Ridge very knife-edged, steep in last part; on face most difficult part because so steep; ice and snow mixed.

Very strong winds on ridge and balance very difficult. Attack time no wind and very fine (no cloud) on face.

Mitani and Nakanishi reached and summit 16 Oct; Kouno and Miyagawa on 17 Oct.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 8 Oct 78

Annapurna South C1 established 27 Sept at 5650m


Shaliendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 19 Oct 78

C2 on 2-3 Oct at 5850m
C3 on 13 Oct at 6380m - last camp


Kouno - 5 Sept 78

Same route as 1974 spr Japanese SW Ridge; now young party
Leave KTM 6 Sept
Leave Pokhara 7 Sept

Reach BC after 8 days with 111 porters via Kyumrum Khola. BC at 4800m. Route up east side of SW Ridge.

C1 - 5600m
Attact camp - 6300m
Ridge very sharp and lot part above attack camp to is very steep snow.

1 sirdar Dawa Tsering and 3 HA Sherpas and 2 LA Sherpas to C1 only.

Hope 5 members and 1 sirdar on summit in 3 parties. Doctor stays BC.
Summit about 20 Oct; if bad weather only 1 summit party.