원정 개요

Takeda & Dr. Suda - 20 Oct 78

Both camps were on SE Ridge. C1 made 26 Sept at 4650m. Made nw C1 4 Oct 4850m - new C1 is very near BC and wanted C1 at 4850m,but route to that site was very difficult and had avalanche, so carried baggage to 1st C1 and then moved C1.

Kusakari, Sugawara and 2 Sherpas hit by snow between old and new C1's, near old C1 site on 20th Sept. Sherpas Nuru Zamba and Gyalzen Chaklang carrying heavy loads on fixed rope as different 2 Sherpas fell down cliff 20-30m and 200m move slipped on mere gentle terrain. 2 members were at between of cliff and they slipped 200m also. Member and 1 Sherpa only minor injuries but Nuru Zambu head skull fracture injury and unconscious and had to be dug out and revived; bad shock and confused. Brought to KTM hospital by helicopter after being carried to BC.

After new C1, wanted make C2 at about 5300m and were putting in fixed ropes but reached only 5200m by Nakanishi and Thunakawa and then no route: very steep cliff SE Ridge or very soft rotten rock, so SE Ridge.

Okuyama was sick from altitude and so Dr Suda went with him. Sugawara not ill really, only slight headache. Sherpa also not: carried baggage for ill Okuyama who could not carry his own.

No other accidents; illness and no frostbite.
Leave for Japan may be early Nov.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78

Tukuche abandoned 6 Oct; climbing route very difficult.
Had made C1 4700m 20 Sept.
BC 11 Sept 4000m
C1 highest point reached.


Takeda & Suda - 30 Aug 78

Larjung Khola to Point 4843m on Dhaula Himal map, thence west on Photorg Danda, traverse point 6482m and climb Tukuche via SE Ridge.

BC at 3800m southeast point 4843m
C1 at 5200m on Photorg Danda
C2 5800m on Photorg Danda
C3 6400m beyond Point 6482 on Tukuche's SE Ridge

6 members - all in KTM

1 sirdar Tenzing Zambu and 5 H-A Sherpas
Oxygen for medical only
Route = SE Ridge between 6452m and Tukuche is steep ice; more steep is BC to C1 rock.

Point 4843m to Tukuche = 11 km direct
Leave KTM 4 Sept, by truck caravan start 5 Sept.
Arrive BC 15 Sept with 50 porters.
Summit 15 Oct