원정 개요

Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 30 Oct 78

Langtang joint team climbed summit 1st time by Seishi Wada and Pemba Tshering, 35, on 24 Oct via Lirung Glacier route.

Wada 9:25 am
PT 9:27

From C4, established 23 Oct (6650m) in 3 hours 25 minutes. Hoisted flags of Japan and Nepal in 40 minutes on summit. Returned to C3 at 13:30 hours same day.

Because of bad weather and very different route between C1 and C2 on Lirung Glacier, leader decided not send more summit teams and to leave mountain 27 Oct. Expected all in BC by 25 Oct. All are well.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 78

Summit attempt today 24 Oct or tomorrow
C2 15 Oct 5710m
C3 19 Oct 6280m
C4 to be made 22 Oct on SE Glacier at 6800m
Seishi Wada and Pemba Tsering were to go to summit on 24th or if weather not favourable on 25th.


Ban - 2 Sept 78

Tribhuvan University appointed 2 strong climbers as new members of expedition (so expedition now has 4 Nepali members). New members are:

Pemba Tshering, summiter on Jannu and Dhaulagiri V (Spr 1978 Korean)
Pemba Lama, Annapurna IV summiter

In addition to these 2 Sherpa members, expedition will have 7 Sherpas (incl sirdar) above BC.


Ban - 20 Aug 78

Same route as 1961: from Lirung Glacier to East Ridge in 1961 on which reached 6460m (avalanche at 5600m at C3); C4 not made.

2 members arrive 23 Aug, 7 already arrived; 2 members from Tribhuvan University who have no climbing experience but trekking.

Leave KTM 3rd Sept. After 7-8 days via Trisuli reach Langtang village, thence east and north to BC on Lirung Glacier at 4000m. 120 porters.

2 months for climbing, summit early Nov.
BC 4000m
C1 5000m
C2 5600m
C3 6300m
C4 6800m

Most difficult 2 icefalls from BC to C2, very dangerous. If reach East Ridge at 6450m, no real problems. Only real problems are avalanches: will study avalanches patterns and then choose safest route.

Sirdar and 5 Sherpas
Sonam Gyalzen (Italian Everest summiter) and with Everest RCC 1973.
Have permit for next spring also in case of failure this season.