원정 개요

Kato & Shimizu - 17 Oct 78

Did no climbing on West Face. Only on NE Face but had received East Ridge permit and looked at it from BC but did climb on ridge because too difficult.

C1 and higher camps where on NE Face. Highest point reached on 7 Oct about 8000m. Then deep snow and not enough food to wait for it. On 27 Sept tried summit attack. Deposited equipment at C5 site but bad weather. Stayed 3 days at C4 and then had to go down. Many avalanches on 23 Sept when Dhaulagiri I had accident.

Had to stop because such deep snow would require 7-10 day's wait after 7 Oct and hadn't enough food for such a wait. Fixed ropes buried in snow. Much effort to get it out of and started avalanche. If good weather, 17 days BC to top possible with such small party.

Dr to C2 - very costly route to C2
No accidents, avalanche, sickness - all well.

Shimizu wants Manaslu again. Kato wants Gosainthan (Shishapangma) joint expedition of 25, otherwise 2-man 8000m, Manaslu or Annapurna with skis if snow bad.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 12 Oct 78

Abandoned due to bad weather; planned to make C5 at 7600m on 28 Sept and to attempt summit on 29th, but bad weather could not make C5 on 28 Sept. Had to wait for good weather until 5 Oct.

On 5 Oct 2 Japanese and 3 Sherpas went from C4 at 7150m (27 Sept) to pitch C5 at 7600m; had to pitch camp at 7500m and stayed there. On 6 Oct snowfall on C5.

7 Oct weather little improved and 2 Japanese attempt summit; because of bad weather reached 8000m only. Too tired and weather very bad returned to C4 on 7 Oct.

Decided to leave BC 11 Oct. Health good.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 17 Aug 78

Manaslu expedition's permit was originally for East Ridge. Permission to switch from East Ridge to NE Face will probably be granted tomorrow.


Shimizu & Kato - 18 Aug 78

West Face route, same as 1971 Japanese route.
Leader + Dr leave KTM 22 Aug by truck and bus and then walk about 14 days to 16 days with 50 porters. Kato by helicopter 20 days later.

6 HA Sherpas including Sirdar Pemba Norbu.
BC about 7 Sept
Climbing time = 18-20 days
5 fixed camps above BC, C5 about 7600m
Use oxygen maybe only sleeping above 7500m probably; also C5 to summit.
Most of route is difficult because rock wall of 100m overhangs. Shimizu was on route in 1971.