원정 개요

M Hashimoto & Yoshio

BC - 10 Sept - 3700m
C1 - 13 Sept - 4330m
C2 - 18 Sept - 4900m
C3 - 22 Sept - 5300m
ABC 25 Sept - 5700m
C4 - 16 Oct - 6600m
C5 - 19 Oct - 6900m
Summit 20 Oct - 9 Japanese
4 Nepalese
22 Oct - 2 Japanese
1 Nepalese

3 weeks to C4 because 4 avalanche covered C3 and C2 with snow. In C3 5 Japanese members 7:00 am 5 Oct having morning tea when avalanche covered C3, but members cut tent and members got out Ok.

When C2 hit (different day) no one there; all below for safety. 5 Oct evening avalanche in ABC. 6 members there; again all Ok.

ABC = snowhole and had to keep entrance open all night. After avalanching and realizing face direct means much fixed rope, decided to go over to SE Ridge (much equipment lost in avalanches including rope). About 9 Oct decided to go ridge.

20 Oct 1st summit attack one fixed rope: all together
1) Mingma Tenzing - C4 to top
2) Sonam Wolang - C4 to top
3) Thapa - C4 to top
4) Tomita -
5) Yasuda
6) Bhandari
7) Okuma
8) Yoshio
9) Aoyagi
10) Suzuki
11) Shingi - C4 to top
12) M Hashimoto - C4 to top

Strong wind on summit and very cold; snow ridge very narrow; room only one man on top at a time. Left C5 7:00 am and C4 5:00 am. C5 waited for C4 to join them all up together. Reached summit 12:45+. Each back to camp which came from.

22 Oct 3 members to top as given by Ministry; on 21 they reached C4.

F. Suzuki and 2 others in support but not 3rd summit attack because now all tired.

No accidents because 3400m fixed rope in place on face and ridge (1600m added to replace lost by avalanche). No sickness or frostbite. All members arrive KTM 4 Nov (except leader) and all in good health.

Most difficult from ABC to C4: very steep blue ice. M Hashimoto made route.

Miss Oktari's summit 1st woman's 2nd ascent of 7000m peak in Nepal.

They hoisted the National flags of Nepal and Japan on the summit with this success, altogether eleven Japanese and five Nepalese climbers have summited.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 78

Ganesh IV from SE Face summit 20 Oct - 12:43 pm

Yogendra Thapa
Mingma Tenzing Sherpa, head constable
Wolang Sonam, head constable
Kamal Bhandari, subinspector
Hashimoto
Y Hashimoto
Yasuda
Shinzi
Tomita

3 Yoshio
Aoyagi
Okuma
Suzuki, T

Left Kukhri on top and hoisted 2 flags. All 3 groups left summit at 13:20 hours.

Reached C4. Biv 6600m where 7 climbers spent night of 19 Oct. Yesterday from C4 2 Japanese and 4 Nepal (arrived 19 Oct). On 20th all these 13 went to top. Finished climbing, all are well.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78

Not only C3 was hit by avalanche. Also C2 hit and personal equipment in C2 swept away. Route between C2 and C3 damaged.


Yoshio & Toyada - 17 Aug 78

Pabil & Ganesh II in Ganesh Himal
23,361 feet = 7120m )
Never attempted

BC at 3500m
Route via South Face
Above BC 300m rock climbing and snow face to C1
C1 -> C2 glacier
C2 -> C3 hanging
BC -> C3 3000m vertical
C3 up: ice and snow wall 1500m vertical, very difficult face.
Would like to split route about C3 and same go off to right and thence to ridge.

Yesterday decided to climb Ganesh II (7150m) next mountain east of Pabil, but not yet approved by HMG but Ra by police. Ganesh II also unattempted.

From Pabil, Ganesh IV would approach via Ganesh II's East Ridge. 5 km from Pabil summit to Ganesh II summit.

All except Dr. in KTM now; main party leaves 25 Aug.
7 police climbers on expedition
Arrive BC after 10 days
Summit Pabil mid-Oct, only after Pabil summit reached will shift to Ganesh II assault.

On Ganesh II assault:
C6 Pabil summit
C7 on ridge to Ganesh II
C8 on ridge to Ganesh at 6900m

ridge = snow and rock arete (knife ridge)
No Sherpa HA porters, only climbing members from police + BC staff

No oxygen for climbing.