원정 개요

Mitsui - 26 Aug 78

Correct local name for peak climbed is Jutibofurani.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78

Leader of "Nampa" expedition barred from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing Jettiborani, which is not on permitted list and for which no permission given.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 20 June 78

For background information only:

Nampa expedition said the approach route they were permitted to use required them to climb "Nampa South" and LO agrees. Action will be taken against expedition, but when and what he cannot say.

Iseki - 24 May 78

Mitsui, Yoshido and Morota reached summit via East Ridge 27 April; only summit assault attempt; no oxygen with expedition.

Top of ridge very sharp so made route just on north side of ridge. No avalanche problem: not much snow because wind took it away.

1972 route from west and north very much more difficult because west side very steep. No accident or frostbite or illness. All very well.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 9 May 78

Nampa South 6940m Jettiborani
Success 27 April by
Kazuo Mitsui, 25
Hideki Yoshida, 23
Norbuto Morata, 21

Rest of expedition to be here by end of May.


Ranjan Bhattacharya, Express House - 9 May 78

Nampa leader came to KTM 7 May and went to Japan today. Others arrive 20th May. Climbed their peak on 27th April.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 78

Nampa camps:

C1 12 Apr - 4500m
C2 14 Apr - 5500m
C3 20 Apr - 6150m
C3 is to be their highest (last) camp, report received 5 May 78 said.


Dr. Yamada - 4 March 78

Jettiborani is real goal.

1972 - Chanlia Khola and Rokapi Khola to west side of Jetti to North Ridge
Present expedition: east side of Bankya Lekh:
Salimor Khola to East Ridge or North Ridge from east side.

Fly to Silgarhidoti and then to Seti Khola, Chainpur and Dhuli to BC
Return: some via Dhangari, some via Jumla, or all via Doti.

Request flights in 2 Otters one on 6th and one 7th but RNAC not confirmed.
Caravan maybe 2 weeks maybe more; difficult route and porters.

40 days climbing, probably 3 camps
C1 5000m
C2 5800m
C3 6400m
Summit 6849m (not 6940m)

No Sherpas above BC, no oxygen for climbing or sleeping.