원정 개요

Kawasaki - 23 May 78

Arrived 2 days ago, others arrive KTM 26 May.

1st attack: 2 members from C4 at 7250m Yamada and Takahashi but very long route on 7 May and left biv equipment at 7550m which next day, 8 May Ogawa and Koike used.

Climbed by new route, East Ridge from South, very difficult rock band from TBC to BC. BC to C1 8 [hours?] and C1 to C2 5 [hours?]. C2 moved to 6050m because avalanches all time; 300 kg in depot and all taken away by avalanche; no one hurt.

No frostbite or accidents.
No summit assault after Ogawa and Koike because all oxygen used up.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 12 May 78

Success 8 May by East Face
C5 on 5 May 7550m
Summiters: leader Yukio Ogawa
Teruji Koike

Summit 9:30 am from C5
All well


Mutho - 7 March 78

Japanese Dhaulagiri II Expedition of Nagoya Alpine Club

Same South face side to East Ridge route as 1975 Japanese team
All members now in KTM; leave for Pokhara 10 March by bus
Caravan starts 12 March, goes up Myagdi Khola to East (SE) Ridge at a col between Dhaulagiri II and point 6599. Arrive BC after 14 days at 4900m.
4 camps above BC, C4 7300m
Summit 1st week or 2nd week May
5 Sherpas above BC, sirdar Pemba Nurbu
No oxygen for climbing but for sleeping in C4