원정 개요

SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78

Leader of Himalchuli expedition barred from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing West Peak without official permission (West Peak not on permitted list).


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 20 June 78

Himalchuli expedition said they had to climb W Peak to reach Main Peak, but they climbed W Peak day after Main Peak. Action will be taken against them, but when and what he cannot say.


Ogata - 25 May 78

All arrive KTM yesterday.

West Peak by leader Ogata and Sugeno 7th May. North Peak not attacked. Very long way to Main Peak by Fujikura, Miyazaki and only Tamura. Only one attack on Main and W Peaks. Bad weather (snow and wind) prevented further efforts.

C5 main summiters start 5:00 am, reached summit 1:00 pm and returned C5 8:00 pm. Very long: 3000m from C5 to Main Peak (route on ridge to Main Peak went behind West Peak and little bit down behind W Peak).

Most difficult points in climbing were rock immediately below C2 and ice above C3. From 5050m to 6500m needed 3000m fixed rope. This the bottom of South Face to top where their route got onto SW Ridge from South Face.

11 April Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa killed while returning to KTM which is why took so long to established C3: all distracted by his death.

All other Sherpas and all members good health. No accident or frostbite.

Sigenori Tamura used oxygen after summit, very tired and used oxygen for sleeping - only use of oxygen by summiters.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 78

Success - 6 May
Kazumi Fujikura, engineer, born 3/50
Hisawa Miyazaki, cook
Sigenori Tamura, born 3/50, gardener

C5 4 May 7300m
Weather fine but rains and hails everyday since 6 May.
Stopped climbing. All well.


Ogata - 4 March 78

Ogata was on 1974 Tukuche expedition.
Route near same as 1975 expedition.
1960 via Musi Khola east from Marshyangdi R to SW Ridge of other Peak 7371 to Himalchuli South Face.

1975 Marshyangdi River to Dordi Khola to South Face, not SW Face.

10 members leave KTM 7 March (all now in KTM).
By bus Dumre bridge then caravan about 10 days with 130 porters to BC 4000m.

8 Sherpas - 5 HA and 3 BC, Pasang = sirdar.

Main summit 5-10 May
West Peak and North Peak and summit within 1 week of each other.

3 porters, 3 members each for summit Main Peak
6 members West Peak
3 other members North Peak
9 = all members Main Peak

Team = 9 climbers and 1 Dr who stays at BC.
Oxygen not for climbing, but sleeping in C6 only.