원정 개요

Correct route for 1978 spring Japanese on Dhaulagiri I was South Ridge (according to Yves Pollet-Villard, Nov 1978)


Shinizu - 29 May 78

5 members now in KTM. Leader and others arrive 31 May or so.

10 May summiters leave C5 6:00 am and on summit 11:30 am; returned to C4 4:00 pm. Good weather but moving in very strong wind, Kobayashi and Shigeno.

BC->C1 glacier icefall - long way and wanted to make C1 at 4500m but avalanche danger prevented it - at 4500m had depot.

C1->C2 - snow and ice face, very steep (60 degree) but no avalanche; steep part 500m vertical and all fixed rope; only room for 2 tents at C2 on small area.

C2->C3 - 1st 100m rock face also 60 degrees; then knife-edge rock ridge; then again rock ridge so very steep required wire ladder (all members but only 5-6 Sherpas could negotiate wire ladders); then rock band traverse; then 500m rock ridge again C3 to C4 on 1st 100m of snow ridge; then snow and ice; 80m below C4 very difficult rock climbing. Only 3 Sherpas and 7 members reached C4.

C4->C5 - all rock face to 7300m not difficult if no snow but this season much snow and which caused slipping (very small avalanches).

C5->summit - very easy but long (5 km) - walking route from 100m above C1 to C5 all fixed rope - 6000m fixed rope used.

On 11 May summiters: Shimizu, Y Kato, H Yoshimo and Ang Kami Sherpa; left C5 5:30 am, summited 12:30 pm, arrived C4 5:00 pm.

Morning very good weather, 1:00 pm cloudy (rain at base camp but no snow high). Night time every day very strong wind and snow.

No accidents or frostbite; only Naganuma ill, he died HA sickness [causing him to fall?] and body buried in crevasse.

All members to Japan together about 10 June.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 11 May 78

C5 7500m on 9 May.

On 10 May 5:30 am started to climb and 11:25 am reached summit, stayed on top 45 minutes.

South Pillar route; more dangerous and more difficult then other routes. 3rd Japanese attempt and 1st success by this route.