원정 개요

Nagato - 14 May 78

C4 hit by avalanche on 2 May, but no one injured. Summiters went direct from C3 to top.

1st summit attempt 30 April from C3 but abandoned at 6800m by Tamura and Ito due to bad weather.

2nd attempt to be on 3 May by Yagiri, Tamura and Kunihiro; they in C4 night of 2 May and then after avalanche went down.

3rd attempt 8 May by Tamura and Pemba Lama successful.

No accident or frostbite; leader and Tamura arrive KTM 13 May; others at Namche maybe - to KTM 17 May.

Route very difficult, steep rock and ice between 6200m and 6800m.


SR Sharma - 10 May 78

Summit 8 May at 12:55 pm by Satoshi Tamura and Pemba Lama, 25. Japan and Nepal flag hoisted and had lunch on top return to C3 9 May.

Climbing finished. Leave BC 12 May. All well.


Nagoto & Yagiri - 14 March 78

Same route as 1973 Japanese, French and Canadian expeditions: SW Ridge.
Leave KTM 16 March to Lukla if possible. Stop 3 days acclimatizations at Thyangboche or Pheriche, then BC 29 March at 5300m.

Sirdar Annu Sherpa and 6 H-A Sherpas.
Oxygen, not for climbing, but for sleeping in BC C3 and C4.
4 camps above BC.
C4 = 6800m = attack camp

2 summiters about 1 May
6 Japanese members and Hirotami
No doctor
Nost difficult part of climb between C2 (6200m) and C4 - mixed rock and ice.