한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Johann Scharnagl

Annapurna II · 1978 · 봄 (1) · Austria

원정 개요

BC 3200m
C1 4100m
C2 5000m
C3 5700m
C4 6200m
plus free camp by Toni Pellhammer 6500m.

7100m highest point reached = col to West Ridge; reached by Pellhammer and 3 Sherpas then slight frostbite and other having problems (leader's hand infected), 2 others sun-stroke.


South Face to West Ridge route.

4 May Pellhammer to C1 and all to BC. Then came bad weather with deep snowfall. Had 1st attempt in April by all members, but 2 members reached only C2 and snow stopped that attempt.

Small team can succeed if not 2 men really out with hand [infection] and sun-stroke.


SR Sharma (Tourism) - 10 May 78

Abandoned because bad weather on 8 May.
Last camp 14 April C1 4100m.
All well.


Scharnagl & Kruettner - 31 March 78

South Face route, a new route on Annapurna II. Last 700m is rock, below is snow and ice.

Leave KTM 2 April by road to Pokhara. 6-7 days to BC up Madi Khola. Last day from Hogo village to BC very difficult because of rock.

BC - 3500m
C1 - 4800-5200m
C2 - 5800-6100m
C3 - 6500-6600m
C4 - 7100-7200m

5 Sherpas above BC. Sirdar is Pemba Tsering.
No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.
4 weeks to summit from BC.
Expedition returns to KTM end of May.

  • 내부 원정 ID2132
  • 원본 EXPIDANN278101
  • 대장Johann Scharnagl
  • 루트 (Route)S Face-W Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7100m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Johann (Hans) ScharnaglAustriaLeader---
Hermann KruettnerAustriaClimber---
Toni PellhammerAustriaClimber---
Geierstanger SiegeriedW GermanyClimber---
Pemba Tsering SherpaNepalSirdar---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. · 1978 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927402/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-II · 1978 · 웹사이트 (5) ·