원정 개요

Gunter Sturm - 11 Sept 78

1978 spring German attempt on Putha Hiunchuli (which he himself scaled in Autumn 1978 attempted in 1972) was not South Face but really was East Ridge from south.


Graf - 26 April 78

At C3 6000m 18 April Graf and Schiemann trapped under avalanche and stopped climbing. Snow avalanche covered C3 and lost much equipment; took more than 2 hours to come out like mouse; no injuries. Two Sherpas, Pemba Tsering and Sonam, were swept down by the avalanche, but were not hurt.

Could breathe but barely - "I have lost a dream and won a life."

Mr & Mrs Schiemann and Mr & Mrs Steigleiter came to KTM today.


Steigleiter - 22 March 78

BC at about 4100m (where Japanese spr 1972 had base) in Kaphe Khola.
Route up South Face - difficult route from all previous attempts. If get to East Ridge at all would be only very last part only.

6 Sherpas above BC; sirdar is Dorje Sherpa.

Leave KTM Friday 24 to Pokhara by air and then 10-12 days to BC.
3 or 4 camps above BC with highest about 6400m.
Most difficult part: iceface of 300-400m just below summit; also stone and ice falling.

No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.
3 weeks climbing with summit by end of April.